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Stanton and Snowshill, The Cotswolds – Chapter 5

Stanton, The Cotswolds

Stanton and Snowshill, the Cotswolds – Chapter 5

Wednesday, August 30…The morning was one of those delightful easygoing and sunny mornings when nothing was immediate or demanding, and doing anything (or not doing anything) was a pleasure.

As usual, I wandered around the grounds of Old Orchard’s beautiful garden, picked some apples and plums in the orchard for Steve and myself, and sat on the bench in the back overlooking the green fields and ever-grazing sheep, just inhaling the fresh air.

We had booked Steve for a trip to Snowshill, and he had added Stanton as a first stop, so at 2:30 he picked us up.  (Advertising push here: Cotswold Executive Cabs – fabulous!)

About three miles from Broadway, the village of Stanton is absolutely delightful.

It only has a population of about 200! (Can I make it 201?) Overcast when we first arrived, the recalcitrant sun popped back out, to showcase the allure of the homes and surroundings.

Stanton has a High Street and a pub, The Mount, which for some reason (rare for us) we did not check out (next time!)

The houses, as is usual here, are built almost entirely of the butter-yellow Cotswold limestone, and a small street which we stopped to photograph wound downhill through the greenery.

Surrounded in part by woods…

village walls were ivy covered…a pansy grew from a stone…climbing roses bloomed…views of the rolling Cotswold hills were seen through a framework of old, old trees and houses… I walked around in a happy dream.

Our next stop was Snowshill Manor, an old manor house built by an eccentric gentleman by the name of Charles Wade.

Back garden of Snowshill Manor

He collected a very wide variety of objects, gadgets, art and thingamajigs from all over the world, and these were displayed throughout his house, rather willy-nilly. Some people find this creepy; I rather like the idea of this old gentleman gathering items from his travels whether they had any value or not and just because…

After all, what is England without eccentricity?

Snowshill Manor ivy covered wall

As I’d been here and toured the manor once before, I stuck to the gardens while David took a quick tour through the house.

The gardens had an end-of-the-season feel to them, but the old stonework of the walls, steps, buildings and so on was still lovely, the ivy-covered walls and ripening fruit really enchanting.

Garden seat at Snowshill Manor

We stopped for a quick cup of tea and a scone at the little teahouse

Snowshill Manor teahouse

then left to ramble onto Snowshill itself, which I’d been wanting to revisit since I first stepped toe onto Cotswold soil. The narrow road was hemmed by fields and woods on either side, and we stopped to take some photographs of the far-reaching hills and fields.

Walking from Snowshill Manor to Snowshill

By the time we got to Snowshill, the weather had turned and had become rather drippy and chilly. We found the Snowshill Arms – which I kept saying “is on the green” but I couldn’t find the green (as I remembered it.) However, we did finally find the pub, only to see that it didn’t open for another 30 minutes. We huddled shivering beneath the portico when the manager drove up and took pity on us, letting us in early, saying she “hoped we wouldn’t mind if she popped upstairs to do a couple of things.” We didn’t mind a bit, especially when she served us a couple of half pints while we waited to order our dinner. And my dinner was scrumptious, an English breakfast actually and the sausage was incredibly good. Loved it! (And my new favorite thing is IPAs…how did I not know about these before?)

A little later Steve joined us for a drink and then drove us home.

Being rather damp and chilled, the first thing that crossed my mind was a hot bath. My bedroom’s master suite held a clawfoot tube, and oh! It was wonderful to dive into the bubbles and get warm.

Clawfoot tub at Old Orchard

Despite the cooling air and wet weather, it was a lovely day, and I am thrilled to add Stanton to my list of English villages that encompass everything right about England. Long may they – and the beautiful English countryside – reign!

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England and Wales – Where to go, what to do

Check out www.carpediemrosemary.com for complete texts & photographic hikes through England and Wales

Lands End signpost

ENGLAND

London & around

  1. Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese pub – the oldest pub, and the meeting place for everyone from Johnson to Shakespeare –  http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ye_Olde_Cheshire_Cheese
  2. Cliveden House www.clivedenhouse.co.uk  – overlooks the Thames, and was once the home of the Waldorf Astors, and the backdrop for the Profumo Affair (1960’s). It’s now a grand hotel.
  3. Hampton Court – Henry VIII – http://www.bing.com/images/search?q=hampton+court+henry+viii&qpvt=hampton+court+henry+viii&FORM=IGRE
  4. 84 Charing Cross Road – the address for an old bookstore that was the subject of a best selling and still loved book by that same name. Also a movie with Anthony Hopkins and Anne Bancroft – http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/84_Charing_Cross_Road_(film)
  5. Eton, Oxford, Cambridge, Windsor Castle – you can actually book rooms at Oxford during the summer months – http://www.oxfordrooms.co.uk/
  6. The playing fields of Eton – “The Battle of Waterloo was won on the playing fields of Eton.” Read more at http://www.broowaha.com/articles/12644/the-playing-fields-of-eton-#bdmA6gJu9qx9J7K8.99
  7. Balliol College (literary home of Lord Peter Wimsey)
  8. Bloomsbury (Virginia Woolfe)
  9. Wimpole Street (Elizabeth Barrett Browning, Robert Browning – poets)
  10. Trafalgar Square

The Cotswolds

You can hire guides who will take you around the small villages and towns of the Cotswolds, which is a good way to see everything you want to, without getting lost!

A guide is one of the best investments you can make to really see the Cotswolds

A guide is one of the best investments you can make to really see the Cotswolds

  1. The Cotswolds – http://www.bing.com/images/search?q=The+Cotswolds+landmarks&qpvt=The+Cotswolds+landmarks&FORM=IGRE
  2. The Cotswolds Way National Trail – http://www.nationaltrail.co.uk/Cotswold/
  3. Broadway (Horse & Hounds restaurant, The Swan, Lowerfield Farm B&B)
  4. Snowshill – Bridget Jones’s Diary filmed here
  5. Sheepscombe House B&B in Snowshill (I spent several days here) http://www.broadway-cotswolds.co.uk/sheepscombe.html
  6. The gardens at Snowshill Manor http://www.gardenvisit.com/garden/snowshill_manor_garden/
  7. Daylesford Organic Farm (organic shopping/clothes – gorgeous) http://www.daylesfordorganic.com/engine/shop/page/our+shops
  8. Bibury  (The Swan Hotel)
  9. Burford
  10. Chipping Camden, Stanton, Stanway, Buckland, Laverton
  11. The Broadway Tower, located on Broadway Hill, near the village of Broadway.
  12. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Broadway_Tower
  13. Upper and Lower Slaughter(s), Naunton, Bourton-on-Water, Chudleigh
  14. Blenheim Palace (Churchill’s birthplace)

The Moors, Dorset

A view of Dartmoor - a wonderful wild place

A view of Dartmoor – a wonderful wild place

  1. Dartmoor National Park – mysterious, rolling moors peopled only by wild ponies – http://www.bing.com/images/search?q=dartmoor+England&qpvt=dartmoor+England&FORM=IGRE
  2. Warren House Inn – at the center of Dartmoor atop a low hill, the only building for miles around http://www.warrenhouseinn.co.uk/
  3. Dorset

Cornwall

  1. Looe
  2. Polraen House in Looe; a delightful B&B with a wonderful restaurant on-site –  I have stayed here and it is absolutely lovely http://www.bing.com/images/search?q=Polraen+House%2c+Looe%2c+Cornwall%2c+England&qpvt=Polraen+House%2c+Looe%2c+Cornwall%2c+England&FORM=IGRE
  3. Talland Bay, on the Cornish coast
  4. Polperro – a real step back in time – Noughts & Crosses Inn – very old

    Noughts and Crosses Inn, Polperro

    Noughts and Crosses Inn, Polperro

  5. Cornish Coast Path – hiking along this path, goes for miles

    The Cornish Coast

    The Cornish Coast

  6. The Lost Gardens of Heligan http://www.bing.com/images/search?q=the+lost+gardens+of+heligan+mevagissey+uk&qpvt=the+lost+gardens+of+heligan+mevagissey+uk&FORM=IGRE
  7. St Mawes (Tudor castle on the hilltop at the coast)
  8. Truro (the great cathedral) – http://www.bing.com/images/search?q=Truro+England+cathedral&qpvt=Truro+England+cathedral&FORM=IGRE
  9. Fowey (pronounced FOY) on the coast
  10. Polruan, Bodinnick
  11. Mevagissy (way too touristy) – the birthplace of Daphne Du Maurier
  12. Penzance (Pirates of…)
  13. St Michael’s Mount – can be reached from Marazion, by the causeway twice a day, otherwise by fishing boat – http://www.bing.com/images/search?q=St+Michael’s+Mount&qpvt=St+Michael%27s+Mount&FORM=IGRE
  14. Land’s End
  15. Lyme Regis
  16. Perranuthnoe – a tiny tiny old village on the Cornish coast, just down the road from Marazion – http://www.bing.com/images/search?q=Peranuthnoe+England&qpvt=Peranuthnoe+England&FORM=IGRE
  17. Mousehole – http://www.bing.com/images/search?q=mousehole+england+photos&qpvt=mousehole+england+photos&FORM=IGRE
  18. Land’s End
  19. St. Kew

    St Kew Inn

    St Kew Inn

  20. Crackington Haven – up a ways from St. Kew
  21. The Strangles – a wild area on the cliff walk from Crackington Haven with glorious views of the sea
  22. Tintagel (Birthplace of King Arthur) http://www.bing.com/images/search?q=Tintagel+England&qpvt=Tintagel+England&FORM=IGRE
  23. Boscastle
  24. Bude

Somerset

1.       Glastonbury – King Arthur and Camelot http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Glastonbury

Wiltshire

  1. Stoke Farm (or Manor) in Broad Chalke (lovely B&B) – http://www.stokemanor.co.uk/
  2. Village of Lacock – 15th century, owned by the National Trust http://www.bing.com/images/search?q=lacock+england&qpvt=lacock+england&FORM=IGRE
  3. Lacock Abbey
  4. The Sign of the Angel – an very old inn in the tiny heart of Lacock (inhabited by a ghost)
  5. The George Pub – sit here and watch comings & goings through its old windows
  6. Castle Combe – one of Wiltshire’s loveliest villages – http://castle-combe.com/
  7. Old Sarum and the “old” Salisbury Cathedral remains
  8. Stonehenge

Worcestershire and Herefordshire

  1. Hay-on-Wye (otherwise known as “Full-of-Books”) http://www.hay-on-wye.co.uk/
  2. The Great Malverns
  3. The town of Malvern (and The Red Lion Pub)
  4. Cowleigh Park Farm – 400 year old farmhouse, absolutely delightful proprietors http://www.malvernbandbconsortium.co.uk/cowleigh-park-farm.html

WALES – THE BORDERS AND INTO WALES

  1. The Brecon Beacons – wild and lonely, sheep and wild horses – on the border of England and Wales
  2. The Wye Valley
  3. Tintern Abbey (in the Wye Valley) http://www.bing.com/images/search?q=Tintern+Abbey&qpvt=Tintern+Abbey&FORM=IGRE
  4. On the coast: Swansea
  5. On the coast: The Mumbles (I lived in The Mumbles as a child)
  6. Langland Bay
  7. Bracelet Bay