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Deja Vu! From Boston to the Enchanted Isle – Martha’s Vineyard

Over 20 years ago, Arlene and I spent a magical week on Martha’s Vineyard and loved it so much, we were determined to return. Well, okay, it took a while. We booked The Charlotte Inn sometime back in 2019 just before the pandemic was in full swing, and as so many of us had done, we put our long-awaited trip on hold until … well …this September 2022!

Monday, September 12

It was an early-morning rise, but at this point I was so eager to get to Boston, I didn’t mind at all. Despite misgivings as to cancelled or delayed flights, getting booked into my flight, and the flight itself, was streamlined and easy once I got to Bush Intercontinental Airport. The plane took off on time, I got a good seat, and it was a direct flight! Hooray for me!

I met up with Lene at the Boston airport, and we took a taxi to the Battery Wharf Hotel which is right on the wharf (duh!) and was just perfect.

After freshening up, talking a mile a minute, interspersed with “are we really here’s” every few seconds, we wandered across the street – it had started drizzling but what did we care – and had a terrific dinner at the strangely named “Legal Seafood” restaurant on the waterfront.

We sat in the Oyster Bar, which was cozy and busy; nonetheless drinks and food were served quickly and everything was delish: Cajun salmon with French fries and Garlicky Green Beans (oh those French fries!). After which, we toddled back to the hotel and crashed – dreaming Martha’s Vineyard dreams.

Tuesday, September 13

As Cape Air had cancelled our flight from Boston to the Vineyard, we researched various options getting us there, and ended up booking Uber to Woods Hole – which turned out to be a terrific idea of Lene’s (first time I’d ever taken an Uber)… It made the trip to Woods Hole so pleasant and relaxing and as we had so much to catch up on, the time just whizzed by. And then it began to rain. We splashed our way to the Woods Hole Ferry office, bought our round trip tickets to and from the Vineyard and then stood in a shelter that in the best of times gave as much cover as an autumn leaf.

I fished an old hiking rain jacket out of my suitcase, and put it on…casually noting that the white lining seemed to have cracked and crumbled a bit. Nonetheless, it was the only rain jacket I had, so zipped it up, and crammed my hair under its hood. The ferry arrived, and we all got on…the ferry floorboards were awash with this unusual rainy onslaught!

When we sat down, Lene pointed out that I’d left a trail of white breadcrumbs in my wake…and my hair and sweatshirt were also covered in the white flakes. The stuff from the coat’s lining was everywhere, and I looked as if I were snowing! I bundled up the rain jacket and immediately tossed it in the trash, hoping no one would think “my god, that girl has a bad case of dandruff!” But as everyone looked as if they’d been rode hard and put up wet, I guess some woman shedding like a duck wasn’t an issue.

The rain had flooded various parts of not only the ferry, but Woods Hole, Vineyard Haven and Edgartown. Still, by the time we docked at Vineyard Haven, it was just misty and drizzly, and our taxi was waiting for us.

In half an hour, we were standing in front of our wonderful Charlotte Inn, looking a bit like drowned rats but, again: Who cared!

Framed in green and white, the Charlotte Inn’s gardens were just as beautiful as we remembered. Gery and Paula, the owners, had done such a marvelous job with the incredible landscaping. And our Carriage Suite was like a miniature English home, with a private entrance up the stairs, and with the most charming artwork, accessories, lamps, and chintz-covered chairs and cushions.

The sitting room was so cozy: Olive green sofa and two easy chairs. The bedroom with both a King size and double size bed was dressed in white.

Casement windows looked out onto beds of hydrangeas and boxwood parterres, sweet-smelling plants and flowers, and statuary peering through stone walls and windows covered in vines and English ivies. It was magic!

So…we cleaned ourselves up after a glass of champagne, and made our way in the evening dusk to dinner at l’etoile (where we’d dined so many years ago when it was a part of the Inn). We had a wonderful cheese platter with Kicuk cheese – a tasty soft white cheese from upstate New York, and finished the delightful meal off with a filet (me) and grilled haddock (healthy Lene!).

After which, we rambled back the one or two blocks to the Charlotte Inn, under a now clear and starry sky.

Wednesday, September 14

We awoke at 9AM to glorious sunshine! What a day – the sun shone, the birds sang, the sky and sea were blue blue blue! This scenario reminded me forcefully of the scene in the movie “Enchanted April.” The women arrive in Portofino in drenching thunderstorms; and the next morning, they open the casement window to the most beautiful sunshine and scenery….

We began with breakfast in the Green Room…the regular breakfast room having been flooded with the heavy rains of the previous day, and was being dried out. The Green Room – and the Inn itself – is really English to the core, full of beautiful antiques, fireplaces, chintz and comfort.

We were joined at table by Morgan, Gery and Paula’s golden retriever (and twin of Bentley, her brother) who gazed soulfully at each of us with big brown eyes until a slice of toast was offered. From then on, she joined us every morning.  Breakfast included eggs or oatmeal …toast…bacon…hot coffee or tea…fruit … and absolutely no deadlines to meet.

And then we continued with a ramble again around the Inn’s gardens: The gardens are composed of tiny idylls of green vines and ivy and sculpted boxwood balls and hedges…with stone walls lending counterpoint to nature…and everywhere the lush flowers bloom in a cultured disarray of color and variety.

Interspersed with the green and stone are white picket fences and pergolas…

…lawn chairs and stretches of lawn, small tables and small green sheds, brick walkways…

…bow-fronted windows opening into English sitting rooms with deep green walls and chintz-covered sofas mirroring the beauty outside…each vignette a picture.

Drystone walls, an English heritage, enhanced the other stonework where statues peered round corners or through apertures cut into the stone.

The Inn is painted the ubiquitous clean white as are many Edgartown houses. As we walked, two maids in black uniforms with white collars trotted along the brick walkways.

And on to Edgartown. I remembered the white or gray frame houses from twenty years past, and landscaped with the most entrancing flowers and greenery.

We looked into bow-fronted shop windows trimmed in white, checked out The Black Dog, and slowly made our way to the On Time Ferry which makes the run to Chappaquiddick every four minutes (thus the name) – this time sans bicycles.

Because we were on foot rather than bikes – what 20 years ago seemed like a hop, skip and jump to the Japanese gardens, this time was not within easy walking distance. We wandered along the main road, taking a short excursion through bushes to the water, but eventually as we didn’t seem to be making any headway, we turned around and recaught the ferry back to the Vineyard!

Which was fine, because once off the ferry, food and ale was our next motivation…and the Seafood Shanty, with a top deck dining room open to the sky (with table umbrellas to shade from the sun) and overlooking the endless blue of the sea seemed to be perfect on such a perfect day.

We ordered IPAs and lunch…Lene having a lobster roll, me with sashimi – absolutely delicious. The sun was strong and it was warm and balmy – the beer was so relaxing – heaven!

A couple of hours later, we walked to a great little shop where I bought a Martha’s Vineyard hoodie and Lene, a carry-on travel bag. (! I bought one the next day.) We’d decided to ship our luggage back home by Fed X and take the minimum items in carry-ons back to Boston.

After another ramble around Edgartown’s historic cobbled streets, we ended up back at the Inn and settled in for the night, relaxed and peaceful.

Thursday, September 15

Up at 8:30AM to a chilly but sunny, gloriously beautiful day. Again breakfast in the Green Room – omelette, fruit, toast, coffee and Morgan, and then we were out to the shops.

After which, we ordered a taxi from Antonia for a ride to Oak Bluffs and its Victorian homes.

The houses, full of charm and quaintness, outlined in colorful gingerbread trim, looked like they belonged atop a wedding cake.

We had a light lunch at Nancy’s on the Waterfront, a long chat, then we walked around a beautifully green park surrounded by these lovely homes. Mockingbirds were singing, the sun was shining and the water sparkled like blue champagne.

The gingerbread homes in Oak Bluffs are unique to the island…shades of pink, yellow, blue, green outlined in white, kept in tip-top condition, some with green lawns clipped close like a green shag rug. The neighborhood and park were so quiet;  people sat on their porch swings and chatted in low tones.

Our taxi picked us up, and once back in Edgartown, we trotted into its bookstore for a look around. Lots and lots of lovely books, we got so embedded looking and reading and reading and looking, the time passed and we needed to get back to the Inn to ready ourselves for the drive to Aquinnah and the Outermost Inn, a drive taking about 30 minutes.

Located at the furthest end of the island, the Outermost Inn is situated on wide green rolling lawns, where you can sit outside and watch the deer crop the grass in the distance, or watch the sun going down. The dining room was spacious and surrounded by floor-to-ceiling windows allowing for views in every direction.

The menu here was prix fixe – so choices were limited…but the salads and main course were delightful. Also, no liquor license so we shared a bottle of Chardonnay.

After dinner, Margritta, our taxi driver for the night, drove us back to Edgartown along dark winding roads encircled by the deep fir-green woods of Martha’s Vineyard. An occasional headlight nearly blinded us at times, but scarcely anyone was on the road and we made it back to our Inn safely under a banner of silver stars in an inky navy-blue sky. And so to bed, after a long and satisfying day.

Friday, September 16

Another perfect day. Sigh. The temperature continued in the low 70s, a cheeky little breeze ruffled the leaves on the trees, and the sun shone brightly.

Unfortunately, we had a night of up-and-down upsets, from what we don’t know. But eventually all was well, we cleaned up and it was down the stairs for breakfast after stopping at the tiny front desk to discuss shipping our baggage back to our respective homes. Great idea – we’d each bought carry-ons large enough to hold toiletries, pajamas and a change of clothes…so much easier to carry onto the plane.

After breakfast, our taxi picked us up for a quick tour of the island – Menemsha was one of our first stops, which we remembered from previous trips.

A small fishing village dotted with gray-painted cottages, it settled on the waterfront bound by a long wooden pier, which we ambled around under a brilliant sun.

The white fishing boats bobbed on the crystal-clear water, which mirrored the blue of the cloudless sky, and the sandy beach was the palest ivory.

We wanted to also go by the dancing statues, where it was really de rigeur to emulate, not very well I might add – but we tried!

At the Charlotte Inn we took a quick break and then walked again through the now-quiet streets to the upper deck of the Seafood Shanty. Pale ale and sushi and French fries – could anything have tasted any better? Rhetorical question.

The gentle swell of the sea continued to the horizon, reminding us of the old Martha’s Vineyard movie “Jaws” … here, close to Chappy’s ferry, is where many of the scenes took place. And so passed the afternoon…

Back at the Inn, we called the front desk for tape and scissors to wrap up our luggage. A knock on the door and a new front desk steward carrying a silver platter offered the items requested, which reposed atop a white doily. Can I live here forever?

As we did this and that in preparation for leaving, Lene, asking questions about various knickknacks around the room, finally pointed out a photograph of me and my ex-husband, framed on a side table. Being slow on the uptake these days, I wondered how the Charlotte Inn had gotten hold of that old photograph. Which of course Lene had put in the frame…placed in full view on the table…and which I never noticed. Oh well, comes the dawn and not a moment too soon, as I’m sure she wanted to slap me over the head with frame and photo!!

So Lene watched the news, we packed almost everything in the luggage, and twilight descended.

Saturday, September 17

I woke around 6:30 to get my hair washed and dried and finish the packing which we then took downstairs to Carol to take care of.

Then came our last breakfast in the Green Room. We shared toast and bacon with Morgan one final time as she looked mournfully at us over the white tablecloth. Who could resist that look!

We paid our final bill and then it was our turn for a mournful goodbye to our dear Charlotte Inn.

We caught the taxi back to Vineyard Haven, where we’d landed just a few short days before, and clambered onto the ferry to Woods Hole. At Woods Hole, minor contretemps with Uber, but our driver (Pedro – great guy!) turned up and all went smoothly from then on. (He even came back to Boston the following day to take us each to the airport!) Two and a half hours later, we were in Boston.

We planted our bags in our room and decided to see what we could of the city.

What a marvelous city it is, history around every corner…

…we walked the Freedom Trail, sauntered around the Boston Common, passed by Beacon Hill, enjoyed fantasizing about the delightful homes lining the streets, and more…about 4.5 miles all told.

We ended up at Cheers, which was a destination we were determined to find. What fun we had.

We took lots of pictures, drank beer and ate French fries…the patrons were delightful, and the waitress as nice as could be…didn’t seem to care for Diane though.

We were lucky: We got a table immediately – and there was a line!

It was hard to leave, but finally we made our way, tired but happy, back to the hotel. An early dinner celebrated Lene’s birthday and our short but sweet vacation.

Martha’s Vineyard is that delightful island where few things change as the years pass– in Edgartown, the houses still looked as if they are painted every day, the sun shone (for us anyway), the water was crystalline, the flowers bloomed and garlanded streets and doorways…and the Charlotte Inn nestled in its gardens, as full of charm and delight as it had been since we last visited over 20 years ago.

I never tire of the Vineyard’s beauty and peace…always for me, the perfect island.

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Martha’s Vineyard – My perfect island

Martha’s Vineyard and The Charlotte Inn

I’ve always wanted to travel to Martha’s Vineyard. To date, I’ve been there twice in my life, and both times were each wonderful. But the first time – as is so often the case – was the best, having the advantage of the new and fresh…it lived up to every expectation and more. This is a journal of of my first trip, with photographs from both.

Arriving in Boston after an easy flight from Houston, I met Lene, and together we boarded the tiny Cape Air plane for Martha’s Vineyard, the start of a long-awaited little adventure.

In front of the Charlotte Inn

In front of the Charlotte Inn

We arrived quite rapidly at the island’s tiny airport. The weather at Martha’s Vineyard was glorious: blue skies, brisk breeze, and a slight chill in the air. The taxi took us to the Charlotte Inn, everything it’s been cracked up to be and more (and one of my favorite places to stay in the entire world). Waterford crystal decanters filled with Bristol Cream Sherry are in every room, so we toasted to the next three days. The tiny hall downstairs led to a tiny front desk; the Inn was full of fresh flowers – in our room, which we reached up a winding staircase; in the tiny hallway upstairs and down; in each sitting room. Our room was delightful, papered in dark red stripes with a tiny green pattern. Two twin beds with big thick mattresses, clothed in white covers and duvets. Dark green and mulberry striped draperies hemmed at the ceiling with padded pelmets. Two deep green club chairs in the corners. Two latticed windows opened onto a little side street, the third onto a grass lawn, flowers and fountain. The bathroom was huge, and snowy white. The Inn is surrounded by black iron railings or white picket fences. It was absolutely enchanting.

The back garden of the Charlotte Inn

We dropped our suitcases then walked around the town and down the road to The Square Rigger, a tiny restaurant splot in the middle of the road fork. Menu: broiled lobster and salad and a (small) piece of pecan pie. After dinner, it was back to the Charlotte Inn under a clear dark sky dotted with stars, in the very fresh air, with a brisk breeze following our footsteps. Lene and I talked non-stop, until we both passed out from exhaustion!

Edgartown and Chappaquiddick

A good night’s sleep, and we’re up. Breakfast in L’etoile, the inn’s beautiful little restaurant; the menu: spinach, feta and tomato omelet, fresh orange juice and coffee. I like remembering what I eat on trips, obviously!

Edgartown, a view to the water

After breakfast, we rambled down to Edgartown. How beautiful – and how clean – it all was, like something from a wonderful picture book. The houses were pristine, painted white-white or Nantucket gray, and flowers bloomed everywhere we turned. The biggest rhododendrons in scarlets, pinks and white. Lilies of the valley, hedging a white picket fence. Hawthorn, lilacs and wisteria blooming madly. Gigantic tulips, daisies, buttercups and forsythia everywhere, with geraniums splashing in pinks and vibrant reds.

Tulips in Edgartown

When we’d drunk our fill of the beauty, we wandered down to the beach along the deserted sand, until the sea surrounded us. Then it was back to town to check out the ferry for Chappaquiddick, and lunch! The balcony of The Sand Bar overlooked the main street. The menu: clam chowder, fresh shrimp, bloody marys. The air was bell-clear, and the sky a brilliant blue, with a fresh breeze blowing through the town.

After this slightly decadent lunch, we rented bikes at an adorable little bike shop. We were told to lock our bikes to the railing and drop the key in the mailbox slot on our return (I’d like to try this in Houston.) We were given a map of Chappaquiddick with “The Bridge” circled, where it was and how to get to it. Not a word was spoken of Teddy Kennedy or Mary Jo Kopeckne.

The On Time ferry to Chappaquiddick was $3 (round trip) and took all of two seconds to get there. On arrival, we set off down a paved road, and then the island quickly became wild and lonely. It took us about an hour to get to The Bridge. Along the way, we passed small woods with two-story clapboard houses, grey-cedar shingled, dotted here and there.

On Chappy

So here we were at The Bridge. As I was leaning the bike against the heavy, heavy wood railings and saying (sotto voce) to the wind: “I can’t see how the car went through these things,” a man bicycling by said, as he sailed past: “They weren’t there then.” Eerie.

The Bridge

The water on either side of The Bridge was very shallow: you could see the stones glimmering below. The only spot deep enough to drown in is where the car went down.

On Chappy

On Chappy

Few people were on the island today. We bicycled over two or three roads leading to more sandy roads, which in turn led to sea or woods. Once in a while, we passed a house. I liked this island! It was so quiet, all we heard was wind over water.

A view of the Japanese Garden on Chappaquiddick

On our way back to the ferry, we bicycled past a Japanese garden, about three acres deep. It was the most colorful thing on the island, filled with an immense variety of flowering trees and shrubs: blue, white and pink hydrangeas, rhododendrons, tulips, daffodils, spirea, and so many flowers I don’t know the names of. Small streams crossed the paths, tiny bridges forded the streams, statues dotted the landscape, and all was quiet and peaceful. Just enchanting. We rode our bikes all over Chappaquiddick. After about three hours, we were very glad to see the ferry! As Lene noted, “It was uphill on the way in, why isn’t it downhill on the way back?!”

Once again on Martha’s Vineyard, we dropped off our bicycles and keys, and stopped for beer and nachos at a little restaurant hovering over the water. The sky was dark, and it began to rain. We ambled back to the Inn, looking forward to bubblebaths and rest. Fires burned in the fireplaces in the inn’s sitting rooms, which were filled with flowers and beautiful artwork. I heard the church clock down the road chiming the hour; the church bells chimed in unison. A magical world.

Katama, Tisbury, and Vineyard Haven

View across the street from our room at the Charlotte Inn

Up around 9AM, we breakfasted downstairs in the little restaurant, with Lenox china and Waterford glasses beautifully displayed on the white linen tablecloths. Our menu: fresh orange juice, hot coffee, bagels and spinach, feta and tomato omelets. A long stemmed fresh red rose was on every table.

After we eat, we discussed going to Nantucket with the lady at the front desk. As the ferry was not available until June, we were put on standby with the airlines for a Saturday jaunt.

Edgartown lighthouse

Edgartown lighthouse

On a beautifully clear day, time for (we think) a fairly brisk walk before taking a taxi to Vineyard Haven. We set off at a fairly rapid trot up flower-straddled lanes to the main road of Katama. Very soon, we were out of Edgartown, walking and talking on an empty road leading up-island. The beautiful homes we saw were soon further and further apart. Runners and bicyclists became fewer and fewer. After a couple of hours, we wondered where the heck we were! But we kept on because our thinking was: sooner or later we’ll come to a town, and then we can take a taxi back to the inn. Wrong! We were heading for who knows where, even after a couple of people tried to give us directions – I mean, this is a small island!! Where is everyone?? Anyway, we decided to turn back to Edgartown – not soon enough for an iced cappuccino and a banana, blueberry, strawberry and raspberry smoothie! Our short brisk trot up Katama turned out to be on eight mile trek. I, of course, could get lost in a parking lot (as I have).

The wharf at Vineyard Haven

After the break, we took a taxi tour of the island on our way to Vineyard Haven for lunch. After comforting ourselves with cappuccinos, our first stop was Midnight Farm, Carly Simon’s shop.

It was adorable…and expensive. I bought a white wooden picture frame, the book “Midnight Farm“, and some powder and lavendar spray, but the shop had some marvelous overstuffed furniture which caught my eye. Lene’s attention was caught by the pillows, so we left with bags stuffed with lots of goodies. The weekend had begun, and the town was filled with tourists. The narrow Main Street was crowded with shoppers and stalls, and these had some wonderful things.

Discovering the ability to request shipping, I immediately sent a package of orange, banana and rum cakes, baked in glass jars, to my mother and aunt, and a little carved mirror to myself! Shipping is a wonderful invention. Completely forgetting about Nantucket, our return to the Inn is punctuated by a note pinned to our door which reminded us that we have round trip tickets for Saturday. On this high note, we changed clothes and checked on dinner ideas with the front desk. Before we blink an eye, Paula calls Cresca’s on South Water Street to reserve a table. Cresca’s menu has many delightful entrees, and we ended up with feta cheese salads, shrimp and crabcakes. Then came dessert. The piece de resistance was a sampler with a little of everything from the dessert menu. We ordered it, and it was delicious: tiramisu, English custard with fresh raspberries, ginger pound cake, brownie fudge with whipped cream, fresh strawberries and blueberries, and a vanilla ice cream “snowball” – all in miniature. We ate every bite, after which, we waddled home, checking out the shops on the way. Some yo-yos in a window caught our eye, and we bought one…trying it out once we got back to our room. Although it was almost midnight, the streets were still alive with people. The air was chilly, clear and beautiful, and the sound of laughter floated over the water…

Nantucket and Up-Island
Today was our jaunt to Nantucket! It was another glorious day outside: the sunshine was brilliant. The church clock chimed the hour of nine. Outside our bedroom window, the scene below reflected maids in black and white carrying armloads of white towels as they scurried over the brick walks from building to building. John was cleaning the black iron railings. The air was incredibly fresh, and the green seemed more intense as time went by. The fragrance of freshly mown grass filled the air.

Edgartown is one of the prettiest towns I have ever seen; it is so pristine, it looks as if it were painted white every day. Many of the houses were white clapboard with black shutters. We heard the lawnmowers and hedge clippers, and smelled cut grass and lilac everywhere. It was all so beautifully landscaped, edged and manicured, and the flowers are blooming madly. I think I am in love with Martha’s Vineyard. No, I know it.

Lilacs … so beautiful

U.S. Air dropped us off in Nantucket. We picked quite a time to come here: it was Memorial Day Weekend, and also the weekend of the Figawi Regatta – the place was jammed with wall-to-wall college kids, all tanned, slender and having a raucous time. Nantucket’s cobbled and brick-laid streets and gray clapboard houses were impeccable and delightful.

In Nantucket

A whaling town, one of the island’s must-see sights is the Whaling Museum. It houses multitudes of artifacts and information about Nantucket’s whaling history, from the first African-American whaler, to punishments for mutiny (pretty grim.) One room held the full skeleton of a small, 43-foot whale. The museum was dim, fascinating, and not a little uncanny. The rest of the afternoon was spent wandering Nantucket’s streets and shops, which have beautiful and expensive things to sell, all very enticing.

The sea is such an integral part of everything, we couldn’t walk more than two minutes without standing on a waterfront or beach. It was very soothing. Our plane took off at 3PM, and soon we were back at Martha’s Vineyard’s adorable tiny airport, where we hired a taxi for a tour up-island <see “Up Island“, by Anne Rivers Siddons>. Martha’s Vineyard holds a real fascination for me: it is so full of beauty and old-world charm, like a piece of the past come to life. Today, the sky was brilliantly blue and massed with clouds, and the sea breeze was constant and crisp.

Our taxi driver and former Head of Edgartown’s Town Council, Steve, took us up-island by way of Middle Road, through West Tisbury, Menemsha, Chilmark, and West Chop (I love that name) to Gay Head, now known as Aquinnah. Middle Road, as the name implies, cuts through the center of the island. It was lined with high, high hedgerows and dry stone walls, very English. Sheep grazed placidly in the green fields hemmed in by locust wood posts and cedar rails.

The Sculpture Garden on Martha's Vineyard

The Sculpture Garden on Martha’s Vineyard

We passed the Sculpture Garden, which is often mentioned when writing about Martha’s Vineyard, with abstract figures sculpted in white dotting a wide green lawn. Interesting! Always, seas, ponds and lakes abound. Over rolling countryside, Steve drove us to a beautiful bluff called Overlook Point. This looked down to a crystal clear blue lake with white-sailed boats skimming the surface.

Next came Chilmark and Menemsha, two tiny fishing villages, with small gray clapboard houses. “Jaws” was filmed at Menemsha, and just across the inlet, the remains of the “Orca” could be seen on the tiny beach. From here, it was a winding road to Gay Head/Aquinnah, and the Cliffs which look out forever over a silvery-gray Atlantic. The day was still brilliantly sunny, but the wind was immensely strong, bracing and fabulous.

The South Road led us back to Edgartown.

We arrived at our beautiful little Charlotte Inn, walked to The Black Dog to buy t-shirts, then back to the inn to drink Bristol Cream sherry and plan for our last dinner at L’etoile. Our dinner menu: duck fois gras, lobster etouvee, rack of lamb and fresh berries. The perfect end to a perfect day.

Leaving Martha’s Vineyard

A view from our room at the Charlotte Inn

We woke to another Chelsea morning: brilliant sunshine, clean, clear skies and a slight breeze. Poking my head from the window, I saw the maid scurrying along the brick pathway with an armload of fresh white towels. If we’d ordered the weather, we wouldn’t have made a single change. Martha’s Vineyard is everything we thought it would be – a little white-painted jewel set amongst many-colored flowers and underscored by the music of the sea. And the flowers! White spirea, double headed orange poppies, daisies, tulips, daffodils, narcissus, peonies, wisteria, roses, and everywhere…the lilac trees! The scent of lilac is in the wind. Everywhere we looked were green, green lawns, white houses trimmed with black shutters, all backed by vivid blue skies.

Leaving beautiful Martha’s Vineyard

This is one of my favorite places on the face of the earth…I love it. Goodbye, dear Martha’s Vineyard!