Tag Archives: the Cotswolds

The Beauty of the World

From childhood through the 2000s, I’ve been on the move. And luckily, where I started from was a delightful small village called The Mumbles, on the coast of Wales in the U.K., storybook in every way. As I’ve traveled through the years, it’s been my good fortune to experience the beauty of unforgettable places often in the back of beyond – and have a camera close to hand! (Mount St. Michaels in Cornwall is pictured above.)

The Mumbles, Wales

The Mumbles was everything a child could dream of…a village of small cottages and shops, including a tiny grocery halfway up an almost vertical hill called Higher Lane.  Everywhere were country lanes and meadowlands starred with wildflowers and heather. The Mumbles is surrounded by cliffs, shores, pebbled beaches, and caves which beg for exploration.

Grazemala, Andalusia, Spain

Enchanting Grazemala in Andalusia – the town is absolutely charming: all hilly cobbled streets and a tiny town square overlooked by the Catholic church, lots of adorable shops … beautiful.

Granada, Andalusia, Spain

Granada is one of Andalusia’s storied cities; here you will find the magical Alhambra.

Ronda, Andalusia, Spain

One of my favorite places on earth, Ronda is a town divided by a deep gorge, looking out over the plains to a faraway horizon… Hiking here was an incredible adventure.

Portofino, Italy

Our first view of Portofino, as we hiked down from high atop a hill: narrow walled paths, starred with daisies. The tiny town of Portofino floats within this panorama, the bay dotted with white boats and yachts. Like a small blue sapphire within an emerald green cup, Portofino is a quintessential cosmopolitan seaside Riviera town.

Snowshill, The Cotswolds, England

Snowshill is a town of sunwashed Cotswolds stone, lanes and lavender fields, and home to Snowshill Manor, once owned by an eccentric individual who gathered oddities from all over the world for the manor house. The manor garden is enchanting. Snowshill’s small pub on the village green is quintessentially English.

Minster Lovell, The Cotswolds, England

Minster Lovell is a village I had never heard of, and was a delightful, absolutely charming surprise. The old church, St. Kenelm’s, is a grade A-listed church dating from the 14th-15th century. Behind the church are tall lacy ruins of what used to be a great manor house set against a wide green lawn alongside the river, where children play on the grass.

Stanton, The Cotswolds, England

The little village of Stanton seems to personify everything I love about the Cotswolds. It is perfect in every way. The houses are built of the butter-yellow Cotswolds stone, and the small street winds downhill and is filled with beautiful sights. Ivy covered walls…a pansy growing from a stone…climbing roses in bloom…views of the rolling Cotswolds hills seen through a framework of old, old trees and houses… and a picturesque little pub in which to have lunch.

Chipping Campden, The Cotswolds, England

One of the beautiful historic gems dotting the Cotswolds, Chipping Campden is full of storybook buildings, cobblestone streets and drystone walls, fields and trails.

Lacock, Wiltshire, England

A storied small village with a lovely little inn, The Sign of the Angel, which houses a resident ghost. If you walk the cobbled streets at dusk, the mystery and magic of Lacock’s history surround you.

Polperro, Cornwall, England

A tiny fishing village on the coast of Cornwall, Polperro has an aura that is really magical. The narrow winding streets, the tiny houses interspersed with shops, restaurants, pubs and galleries…everywhere you look is a picture. Houses are built into or hacked out of bedrock, stacked up on the cliffsides, looking out over steel gray seas. 

Fowey, Cornwall

Some of the most enchanting views on the Cornish coast are seen from Fowey, a small port town, and the village itself is made up of white houses on a cliff overlooking the natural harbor of great beauty.

Perranuthnoe, Cornwall, England

No bigger than a teacup, Perranuthnoe casts a magic spell. We couldn’t find directions when driving in Cornwall one autumn, until someone told us to turn right at Bertie Wooster’s Inn.

Ryde, The Isle of Wight, Great Britain

One of the most magical views looks out from my 4th story hotel room over the rooftops of Ryde to the English Channel. Surrounded by beautiful beaches and hiking trails, Ryde is hilly, with cobbled streets and wonderful little shops, pubs and houses.

Cong, Ireland

A tiny historic town in County Mayo, Cong is where the film “The Quiet Man” with John Wayne and Maureen O’Sullivan was filmed…and every pub and restaurant and hotel is named after one of the characters in the movie, and every window is filled with photographs from the movie. Just delightful. Just outside the town is Ashford Castle (with more photos of the cast on its walls)…here you can experience falconry, boat rides, sing along with a troubadour onstage, and revel in the beauty of the Irish countryside.

Glendalough, Ireland

Glendalough is a glacial valley located in County Wicklow known for its incredible natural beauty. Hikes in this historic and magical place are something never to be forgotten.

Inverness, Scotland

Located on the River Ness and steeped in history, Inverness is one of Scotland’s loveliest towns, with architecture that makes you think you’re in another time and place.

Bergen, Norway

Majestic and thrilling, Bergen is surrounded by green mountains – we loved riding the funicular to the top of the mountain and walking back down through deep ferny woods and huge oak and birch trees – beautiful!

Loutro, Crete

Our first glimpse of Loutro is of a heavenly small port on the Libyan sea coast, its buildings whitewashed and edged with the vivid blue shutters of Greece – all facing the water. Our hotel, the Sitis, is at the far edge of the tiny waterfront. It is hard to describe my feelings on first seeing Loutro: it is all I had hoped Greece and Crete would be.

England and Wales – Where to go, what to do

Updated January 11, 2021. Check out www.carpediemrosemary.com for complete texts & photographic hikes through England and Wales, including the Isle of Wight. 

Lands End signpost

ENGLAND

London & around

  1. Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese pub – the oldest pub, and the meeting place for everyone from Johnson to Shakespeare –  http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ye_Olde_Cheshire_Cheese
  2. Cliveden House www.clivedenhouse.co.uk  – overlooks the Thames, and was once the home of the Waldorf Astors, and the backdrop for the Profumo Affair (1960’s). It’s now a grand hotel.
  3. Hampton Court – Henry VIII – http://www.bing.com/images/search?q=hampton+court+henry+viii&qpvt=hampton+court+henry+viii&FORM=IGRE
  4. 84 Charing Cross Road – the address for an old bookstore that was the subject of a best selling and still loved book by that same name. Also a movie with Anthony Hopkins and Anne Bancroft – http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/84_Charing_Cross_Road_(film)
  5. Eton, Oxford, Cambridge, Windsor Castle – you can actually book rooms at Oxford during the summer months – http://www.oxfordrooms.co.uk/
  6. The playing fields of Eton – “The Battle of Waterloo was won on the playing fields of Eton.” Read more at http://www.broowaha.com/articles/12644/the-playing-fields-of-eton-#bdmA6gJu9qx9J7K8.99
  7. Balliol College (literary home of Lord Peter Wimsey)
  8. Bloomsbury (Virginia Woolfe)
  9. Wimpole Street (Elizabeth Barrett Browning, Robert Browning – poets)
  10. Trafalgar Square

The Isle of Wight

  1. Yelf’s Hotel, Ryde – an absolutely adorable 4 story hotel – if you get the room on the fourth floor (and no elevator!) you’ll have the most marvelous view to the sea! England 2018 985
  2. Ferry from Portsmouth to Ryde – runs every 15 minutes – and they held it for me as I was buying a ticket!
  3. Osborne House, Queen Victoria’s summer cottage! England 2018 1043
  4. The Crab & Lobster pub, Bembridge  England 2018 1093
  5. Shanklin, with the beautiful church and wychgate England 2018 1104
  6. Quarr Abbey and Farm – besides the beautiful Abbey, the grounds are incredible, with old stone buildings and cottages, woods, farm animals, a little shop and tearoom…you can roam for hours. 20180911_150929

The Cotswolds

You can hire guides who will take you around the small villages and towns of the Cotswolds, which is a good way to see everything you want to, without getting lost!

A guide is one of the best investments you can make to really see the Cotswolds

A guide is one of the best investments you can make to really see the Cotswolds

  1. The Cotswolds – http://www.bing.com/images/search?q=The+Cotswolds+landmarks&qpvt=The+Cotswolds+landmarks&FORM=IGRE
  2. The Cotswolds Way National Trail – http://www.nationaltrail.co.uk/Cotswold/
  3. Broadway (Horse & Hounds restaurant, The Swan, Lowerfield Farm B&B)
  4. Snowshill – Bridget Jones’s Diary filmed here
  5. Sheepscombe House B&B in Snowshill (I spent several days here) http://www.broadway-cotswolds.co.uk/sheepscombe.html
  6. The gardens at Snowshill Manor http://www.gardenvisit.com/garden/snowshill_manor_garden/ 
  7. Daylesford Organic Farm (organic shopping/clothes – gorgeous) http://www.daylesfordorganic.com/engine/shop/page/our+shops
  8. Bibury  (The Swan Hotel)
  9. Burford
  10. Chipping Camden, Stanton, Stanway, Buckland, Laverton
  11. The Broadway Tower, located on Broadway Hill, near the village of Broadway.
  12. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Broadway_Tower
  13. Upper and Lower Slaughter(s), Naunton, Stanton (one of my favorite villages), Fillkin, Bourton-on-Water, Chudleigh  10 ENGLAND 2017 434
  14. Blenheim Palace (Churchill’s birthplace)

The Moors, Dorset

A view of Dartmoor - a wonderful wild place

A view of Dartmoor – a wonderful wild place

  1. Dartmoor National Park – mysterious, rolling moors peopled only by wild ponies – http://www.bing.com/images/search?q=dartmoor+England&qpvt=dartmoor+England&FORM=IGRE
  2. Warren House Inn – at the center of Dartmoor atop a low hill, the only building for miles around http://www.warrenhouseinn.co.uk/
  3. Dorset

Cornwall

  1. Ednovean Farm Luxury B&B, close to Marazion and St Michael’s Mount. This is a storybook B&B, run by Christine and Charles Taylor, accompanied by cats Spud and Louis, and beautiful horses including Danni and Dolly. Five Star, Luxury B&B & Seaside Gardens, Perranuthnoe | Ednovean Farm 
  2. Looe
  3. Polraen House in Looe; a delightful B&B with a wonderful restaurant on-site –  I have stayed here and it is absolutely lovely http://www.bing.com/images/search?q=Polraen+House%2c+Looe%2c+Cornwall%2c+England&qpvt=Polraen+House%2c+Looe%2c+Cornwall%2c+England&FORM=IGRE
  4. Talland Bay, on the Cornish coast
  5. Polperro – a real step back in time – Noughts & Crosses Inn – very old

    Noughts and Crosses Inn, Polperro

    Noughts and Crosses Inn, Polperro

  6. Cornish Coast Path – hiking along this path, goes for miles

    The Cornish Coast

    The Cornish Coast

  7. The Lost Gardens of Heligan http://www.bing.com/images/search?q=the+lost+gardens+of+heligan+mevagissey+uk&qpvt=the+lost+gardens+of+heligan+mevagissey+uk&FORM=IGRE
  8. St Mawes (Tudor castle on the hilltop at the coast)
  9. Truro (the great cathedral) – http://www.bing.com/images/search?q=Truro+England+cathedral&qpvt=Truro+England+cathedral&FORM=IGRE
  10. Fowey (pronounced FOY) on the coast
  11. Polruan, Bodinnick
  12. Mevagissy (way too touristy) – the birthplace of Daphne Du Maurier
  13. Penzance (Pirates of…)
  14. St Michael’s Mount – can be reached from Marazion, by the causeway twice a day, otherwise by fishing boat – http://www.bing.com/images/search?q=St+Michael’s+Mount&qpvt=St+Michael%27s+Mount&FORM=IGRE
  15. Land’s End
  16. Lyme Regis
  17. Perranuthnoe – a tiny tiny old village on the Cornish coast, just down the road from Marazion – http://www.bing.com/images/search?q=Peranuthnoe+England&qpvt=Peranuthnoe+England&FORM=IGRE
  18. Mousehole – http://www.bing.com/images/search?q=mousehole+england+photos&qpvt=mousehole+england+photos&FORM=IGRE
  19. Land’s End
  20. St. Kew

    St Kew Inn

    St Kew Inn

  21. Crackington Haven – up a ways from St. Kew
  22. The Strangles – a wild area on the cliff walk from Crackington Haven with glorious views of the sea
  23. Tintagel (Birthplace of King Arthur) http://www.bing.com/images/search?q=Tintagel+England&qpvt=Tintagel+England&FORM=IGRE
  24. Boscastle
  25. Bude

Somerset

1.       Glastonbury – King Arthur and Camelot http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Glastonbury

Wiltshire

  1. Stoke Farm (or Manor) in Broad Chalke (lovely B&B) – http://www.stokemanor.co.uk/
  2. Village of Lacock – 15th century, owned by the National Trust http://www.bing.com/images/search?q=lacock+england&qpvt=lacock+england&FORM=IGRE
  3. Lacock Abbey
  4. The Sign of the Angel – an very old inn in the tiny heart of Lacock (inhabited by a ghost)
  5. The George Pub – sit here and watch comings & goings through its old windows
  6. Castle Combe – one of Wiltshire’s loveliest villages – http://castle-combe.com/
  7. Old Sarum and the “old” Salisbury Cathedral remains
  8. Stonehenge

Worcestershire and Herefordshire

  1. Hay-on-Wye (otherwise known as “Full-of-Books”) http://www.hay-on-wye.co.uk/
  2. The Great Malverns
  3. The town of Malvern (and The Red Lion Pub)
  4. Cowleigh Park Farm – 400 year old farmhouse, absolutely delightful proprietors http://www.malvernbandbconsortium.co.uk/cowleigh-park-farm.html

WALES – THE BORDERS AND INTO WALES

  1. The Brecon Beacons – wild and lonely, sheep and wild horses – on the border of England and Wales
  2. The Wye Valley
  3. Tintern Abbey (in the Wye Valley) http://www.bing.com/images/search?q=Tintern+Abbey&qpvt=Tintern+Abbey&FORM=IGRE
  4. On the coast: Swansea
  5. On the coast: The Mumbles (I lived in The Mumbles as a child)
  6. Langland Bay
  7. Bracelet Bay

Stanton and Snowshill, The Cotswolds – Chapter 5

Stanton, The Cotswolds

Stanton and Snowshill, the Cotswolds – Chapter 5

Wednesday, August 30…The morning was one of those delightful easygoing and sunny mornings when nothing was immediate or demanding, and doing anything (or not doing anything) was a pleasure.

As usual, I wandered around the grounds of Old Orchard’s beautiful garden, picked some apples and plums in the orchard for Steve and myself, and sat on the bench in the back overlooking the green fields and ever-grazing sheep, just inhaling the fresh air.

We had booked Steve for a trip to Snowshill, and he had added Stanton as a first stop, so at 2:30 he picked us up.  (Advertising push here: Cotswold Executive Cabs – fabulous!)

About three miles from Broadway is the enchanting village of Stanton – absolutely delightful.

It only has a population of about 200! (Can I make it 201?) Overcast when we first arrived, the recalcitrant sun popped back out, to showcase the allure of the homes and surroundings.

Stanton has a High Street and a pub, The Mount, which for some reason (rare for us) we did not check out (next time!)

The houses, as is usual here, are built almost entirely of the butter-yellow Cotswold limestone, and a small path which we stopped to photograph wound downhill through the greenery.

Surrounded in part by woods…

drystone walls were ivy covered…a pansy grew from a stone…climbing roses bloomed…views of the rolling Cotswold hills were seen through a framework of old, old trees and houses… I walked around in a happy dream.

Our next stop was Snowshill Manor, an old manor house built by an eccentric gentleman by the name of Charles Wade.

Back garden of Snowshill Manor

He collected a very wide variety of objects, gadgets, art and thingamajigs from all over the world, and these were displayed throughout his house, rather willy-nilly. Some people find this creepy; I rather like the idea of this old gentleman gathering items from his travels whether they had any value or not and just because he felt like it…

After all, what is England without eccentricity?

Snowshill Manor ivy covered wall

As I’d been here and toured the manor once before, I stuck to the gardens while David took a quick tour through the house.

The gardens had an end-of-the-season feel to them, but the old stonework of the walls, steps, buildings and so on was still lovely, the ivy-covered walls and ripening fruit really enchanting.

Garden seat at Snowshill Manor

We stopped for a quick cup of tea and a scone at the little teahouse

Snowshill Manor teahouse

then left to ramble onto Snowshill itself, which I’d been wanting to revisit since I first stepped toe onto Cotswold soil. The narrow road was hemmed by fields and woods on either side, and we stopped to take some photographs of the far-reaching hills and fields.

Walking from Snowshill Manor to Snowshill

By the time we got to Snowshill, the weather had turned and had become rather drippy and chilly. We found the Snowshill Arms – which I kept saying “is on the green” but I couldn’t find the green (as I remembered it.) However, we did finally find the pub, only to see that it didn’t open for another 30 minutes. We huddled shivering beneath the portico when the manager drove up and took pity on us, letting us in early, saying she “hoped we wouldn’t mind if she popped upstairs to do a couple of things.” We didn’t mind a bit, especially when she served us a couple of half pints while we waited to order our dinner. And my dinner was scrumptious, an English breakfast actually and the sausage was incredibly good. Loved it! (And my new favorite thing is IPAs…how did I not know about these before?)

A little later Steve joined us for a drink and then drove us home.

Being rather damp and chilled, the first thing that crossed my mind was a hot bath. My bedroom’s master suite held a clawfoot tub, and oh! It was wonderful to dive into the bubbles and get warm.

Clawfoot tub at Old Orchard

Despite the cooling air and wet weather, it was a lovely day, and I am thrilled to add Stanton to my list of English villages that encompass everything right about England. Long may they – and the beautiful English countryside – reign!