Tag Archives: North Carolina

America, America

You can never have enough joy, and travel has given me that and more. Small towns and villages and even large cities scattered through North America are as wonderfully magical as those anywhere on earth. Whether with friends or with travel groups, it’s been amazing to have experienced the loveliness firsthand.

1975Balboa, California

One of California’s prettiest little towns is Balboa, where the sunshine never seems to end and every little street is strewn with flower-filled hanging baskets. Small boutiques and restaurants line the cobblestones, which lead to the edge of a scenic harbor.

2016Blowing Rock, North Carolina 

Nestled among the Blue Ridge Mountains is the small (three blocks) mountain town of Blowing Rock. This delightful town of small shops and cobblestone paths, restaurants and pubs – whether seen in the dappled sun, shade or twilight -is a haven of peace and tranquility.

2021 – 2023 Boston, Massachusetts

Everyone knows about Boston – it’s not a small town, but I love it; it has so many delightful streets dotted with churches, museums, restaurants and fascinating architecture. We found La Voile on this enchanting street, and loved sitting outside, drinking in the beauty.

And it’s such fun visiting Cheers!

2002 Camden, Maine

We began our Maine hike in Camden, which is a wonderful place. The quintessential New England town, its narrow streets, delightful shops, galleries, inns and houses are very akin to those on Martha’s Vineyard, another favorite getaway. It’s situated on the Atlantic coast, at the base of the mountains, so you can sit on the dock of the bay and look out to the sailboats gliding gently across the deep blue waters.  The village green, designed by Frederick Law Olsted, Jr., one of America’s most prominent landscape architects, is a simple green swathe of lawn, trees, gardens and shrubs…just a beautiful place to sit and let your mind drift.

2012 and 1975 – Carmel-by-the-Sea, California

Carmel is beautiful when it’s lit by the sun, and mysterious and magical when it’s foggy and quiet. Its beaches are dotted with windswept cedars bowing to the waves, and once we ate at Clint Eastwood’s Hogs Breath Inn, which I think is now gone.

2021Chilmark and Menemsha, Martha’s Vineyard

Chilmark and Menemsha are two tiny fishing villages, with small gray clapboard houses. “Jaws” was filmed at Menemsha, and just across the inlet, the remains of the “Orca” can be seen on the tiny beach.

2018 Couer d’Alene, Idaho

Coeur d’Alene is a lovely name for a beautiful town. We hiked one of its trails, not terrifically difficult but nonetheless uphill and rocky…it circled Lake Coeur d’Alene with misty views of far-off mountains, fir and pine forests, and beautiful blue clear water. The trail itself for the most part was paved in pine needles, so soft underfoot. The sun shone through the pines, and the scented air smelled of pine resin. We had dinner at a floating restaurant bathed in the sunset…the beauty of the view was enchanting.

2016The Dalles, Oregon

I called The Dalles the “back-of-beyond” – which I absolutely loved. Somewhere further from New York or even Houston is hard to imagine. ..so you feel very relaxed and isolated – all in all, not a bad way to feel on vacation. The Baldwin Saloon is an old restaurant with the aura of time-gone-by – delicious food – terrific waiters. Fabulous dinner: Halibut Parmesan, preceded by oysters on the halfshell… It was a two-beer night, so a good time was had by all!

2004 Edgartown, Martha’s Vineyard, Massachusetts

How lovely Edgartown is, like something from a wonderful picture book. We stayed at The Charlotte Inn, a step back in time.

The houses are pristine, painted white-white, and flowers bloom everywhere: the biggest rhododendrons in scarlets, pinks and white, lilies of the valley hedging a white picket fence, hawthorn, lilacs and wisteria, buttercups and daisies. The beaches are not far away, and neither is the On Time Ferry for Chappaquiddick. Seated on the balcony of The Sand Bar restaurant when the air is bell-clear, a fresh breeze blows and the sky a brilliant blue is one of life’s pure delights.

2016Mukilteo, Washington State

The little town of Mukilteo, located a short distance from Seattle, is absolutely charming. The landscape is hilly, the flowers bloom recklessly – roses, daisies, pansies, phlox, hollyhox, snapdragons, hydrangeas – and it overlooks the blue blue blue of Puget Sound. The wooded hills are sewn with redcedar, firs, hemlocks and undergrowth, with salmon streams running through the underbrush.. The architecture throughout is very varied, from small cottages on up to larger stately homes, with green and colorful landscapes.

2005New York, New York

I love New York! I need say no more.

2004 Panguitch, Utah

The little town of Panguitch (meaning “water” -pop. 2000) is host to Bob’s Cowboy Diner, where we were serenaded through lunch by two cowboys singing “Tumbling Tumbleweeds,” “Call the Wind Mariah,” “Cool Water,” and “Ghostriders in the Sky.” Fantastic! I feel as if I’ve wandered way back in time into the Old West – and I don’t want to return to the present!

1975 Sausalito, California

Sausalito – a sunny little town on the edge of the water, filled with boutiques, art galleries, hippies, cafes and the sea endlessly lapping at the town’s edge. A mime was taking a break in a sheltered corner, and he seemed to embody the spirit of this quintessentially California town. I heard “California Dreamin’” on the radio somewhere.

2016 – Stowe, Vermont

Stowe is a completely delightful New England skiing town at the base of Mt. Mansfield (and which also leads to the Von Trapp Family Inn some miles up the road.) In the autumn, Stowe is enchanting. We loved sitting outside amidst the glorious trees, all orange, red and gold…watching the world go by.

2019 – Taos, New Mexico

Taos, a historic small New Mexican town known for its skiing in winter, is close to the magnificent Rio Grande Gorge (where we walked across its bridge in bitter weather.) Tiny shops, restaurants, inns and art galleries are dotted throughout the tiny town, and its views take your breath away.

On the way into Taos, we found this wonderful tiny Black Mesa Winery, tucked beneath the mountains.

1985 Wellesley, Connecticut

Three hundred and fifty years ago, Wellesley was actually called “Contentment” as the area in which it began was so beautiful. Wellesley College, a private liberal arts college for women and a member of the Seven Sisters Colleges, is here. The town is green to its heart, with woodlands, gardens and parks everywhere you look.

2016Victoria, Vancouver Island, Canada

We arrived in Victoria towards the end of the day as dusk began to settle, a perfect time for a first view of this beguiling town. We strolled around the harbor and watched a mime performing in the twilight (I’m entranced by mimes) and the lights coming on at the Governor’s Mansion. A highlight the following day was High Tea at the historically grand old Empress Hotel.

A toast to the wonders of travel…it’s lovely to know the world is still full of enchantment!

The Blue Ridge Mountains, NC – To Hike or Not to Hike

Zip lining in the Blue Ridge Mountains

Zip lining in the Blue Ridge Mountains

I was really looking forward to hiking the Blue Ridge Mountains – and also whitewater rafting, zip lining (a first) and a bit of rapelling. I arrived in Asheville the evening before joining the group, got a good night’s sleep at the hotel, and met Deb, one of my hiking friends, the next day for lunch. Then we were on our merry way to the William Black Lodge at Montreat, North Carolina.

Immediately on arrival, we booted up and made our way up the Lookout Trail and Mountain, which was a lot more challenging than originally thought…As the rest of the group galloped ahead, I made it slowly to the top without any seeming problem.

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It was on the way down that I really got into trouble. My new boots, despite the use of well padded hiking socks and liners, suddenly became way too big as with every step down, my feet began slipping, banging against the toe of the boots.  By the time I was halfway down the mountain, I could barely walk…the pain was intense. I managed to make it to the van, and have never been so glad to get hiking boots – normally the most comfortable of shoes – off my feet!! Tender is not the word…I spent the rest of the evening barefoot, hoping this was simply a bruise that would wear off.

The next day I spent at the lodge, resting up – while my hiking sisters took the next great hike.

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Then it was time for the big adventure. The following morning, I was able to put on my tennies, and hobble to the van, where we drove to our meeting point for whitewater rafting. What a joy! Having done this once before, I was looking forward to the challenge. We read all the documents on the pros and cons of the rafting; elected to sign off despite the dangers of death or worse; and then clustered around the rafts as our guides told us what to expect.

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The day was absolutely beautiful – as was the weather on the entire trip, despite the onslaught of Hurricane Matthew along the coast. We separated into two rafts, and our guide explained that because the water was low, we’d probably be bouncing off more boulders than usual, as well as negotiating pathways through them. All of which was true.The river was placid when we embarked, and our guides shouted orders as we moved out into midstream. What a rush when we encountered our first whitewater, zipping easily around boulders embedded in the sandy floor.

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At one point, where the river was a little rougher than usual, we bounced off a boulder – and Deb bounced right out of the raft! Having been indoctrinated as to what to expect should that happen, after the first shock, she floated easily on her back until Ruthven grabbed her by both straps and hauled her back into the boat. Scary – but definitely something to write home about!

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Halfway through our little odyssey, we pulled our rafts onto the riverbank and stopped for lunch – which consisted of some of the best burgers known to man…yum-o! Then it was back into the rafts, and another hour of pure bliss down the stream….about a couple of hours all told. Such a rush!!

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Our next foray (the same day) was zip lining in the Blue Ridge Mountains. We were vanned to our starting point, went through the usual machinations of the danger, the signing and so forth. Then we wriggled into our safety harnesses, helmets and gloves, as well as donning the leather glove used to slow the flight down should our stop arrive too quickly….

Zip lining in the Blue Ridge Mountains

Zip lining in the Blue Ridge Mountains

And there we were, high on a three-sided platform above the forest, the fourth side open for the zip line. One by one, we were hooked to the cable, sat back and swung out onto the line – the highest rate of speed between platforms was about 30mph. The leather glove worked beautifully, slowing us as we reached the next stop. Half the time we didn’t quite make it to the platform. I usually ended up with a foot or two between me and the platform; at which point, you swivel around on the line and basically crawl backwards, hand over hand, to the waiting guide who pulls you to safety.7

We ran ten of these zip lines.  We traversed a very wobbly suspension bridge to one of our platforms…that was more nerve-wracking than the zip lining!

At two stops, after first being hooked to the cable…we planted our feet on either side of the platform, and swung into the void, then rapelled our way down ropes hand over fist,…another first, another rush! Loved every minute!!

Both the whitewater rafting and the zip lining were courtesy of the French Broad Rafting & Zip Lining company – http://www.frenchbroadrafting.com/ – absolutely terrific in every way.

Then it was off to dinner, and a celebratory drink to finish off the day’s adventure.

Our next foray, the following day, was a visit to the Biltmore Estate, 8,000 acres of beautifully landscaped grounds and over 178,000 square feet of floor space in the mansion. Amazing!

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We took a guided tour of the house, had a picnic in the picnic area, and then stopped inside the wine room for a pleasant hour of wine tasting.

The Biltmore Estate

The Biltmore Estate

Then Karen (one of the trip participants and a lovely person) and I wandered the grounds, where the flowers, shrubs, trees and pathways were a delight.

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Unfortunately by this time, my toes were beginning to make themselves known, as the drubbing they’d received on the first day’s hike had not gone quietly away and I could see I was going to have a problem.

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By the time we made it back to the lodge, it was obvious I could not continue to hike, so I cut my visit short, left for Asheville early the following morning, and so made it back home before my feet fell off. Just kidding!! But it certainly makes me realize the importance of ensuring a well-fitting hiking boot before embarking on challenging trails.

That being said – I wouldn’t have missed the whitewater rafting, rapelling and zip lining for anything. I thought I’d be extremely afraid, looking down down down and knowing I’d be out there, swinging my way across and through the trees like Tarzan. I thought I’d be frozen with fear…but I never felt fear for one moment. That was the greatest thing this trip gave me…who knew!

 

In the magical Blue Ridge Mountains above Blowing Rock, North Carolina

Yonahlossee Overlook, driving up Grandfather Mountain

“Sometimes very strange things happen in the mountains…nothing above but sky…and God.” The Razor’s Edge, Somerset Maugham

This is a beautiful quote from Maugham’s The Razor’s Edge… and there’s especially something about being deep in the mountains in springtime –the hush of the forests blanketing the slopes, the myriad shades of rustling green, the birds singing so happily now that winter is over, and the air chilly and sweet.

Lesley and friend deep in the mountains

A short trip to reconnect with Lesley, a friend I’d known since I was a child – whom I hadn’t seen for over 50 years – was four days of being embedded in the great beauty of  the great and glorious Blue Ridge Mountains.

 

Wednesday

Lesley lives atop one of the mountains – in a home with 360 degree views that take in the surrounding ridges and deep, pine-strewn valleys.

It is so quiet, all you hear are the music of the birds and the wind soughing through the trees. Charlie, Lesley’s cat asleep below, agrees!

At the base of a twisty, gravelly trail is the small (three blocks) mountain town of Blowing Rock,

I love this Harley Davidson sign in the magical little town of Blowing Rock!

where we went for dinner at the Storie Street Grille that first night … a small, delightful restaurant (aren’t they all?) at which we had – a first for me – fried asparagus. Yum-o! Followed by a perfectly prepared filet with polenta that was absolutely delicious.

After dinner, we ambled around the town, looking at the small shops and cobblestone paths, churches, vine covered houses, restaurants and pubs in the still sunlight deep in the mountains. Just crazy about small towns!

Thursday

I woke up around 10AM after a great night’s sleep, which I’d needed after a busy work week back home.

The weather continued glorious – 70 degrees. Sitting on the deck in the mornings, inhaling the view with my coffee, starts the day off perfectly.

We drove to Boone for breakfast at a farm-to-table restaurant, where we sat on the café’s deck and kicked back. Allie, Lesley’s beautiful Golden Doodle, joined us, good as – well – gold.

Boone, named for Daniel Boone, is a college town, home to Appalachian State University, and the main street was awash with students everywhere. The old stonework, for me, is especially appealing, and a part of so many houses and buildings here…

It was time for some much-needed walking on the trails so we wended our way to Cone Memorial Park, a Blue Ridge National Heritage area that is truly exquisite and beautifully maintained. Lots of trails. Canadian geese on the lakes.

Our hike took us around Trout Lake

Trout Lake

and up through woods into the mountains, passing an old apple barn (above) and a sign by the side of the road that said “Due to past pesticide use in apple orchards, some soils on the Cone Estate will contain high levels of arsenic and or lead. Do not dig or allow children to dig in soils…” Really brings you up short with an appalling reminder of the harm done in the past to these wonderful orchards.

Beautiful dry stone walls…always a favorite…

The trails were dotted with dry stone walls and old buildings, and everything was green green green. There are about 25 miles of trails – we rambled along five of them…

Friday

Sunrise high in the Blue Ridge Mountains

Woke around 9 in the morning…I’d actually waked at sunrise, which was so beautiful from the bedroom window, I had to jump from the bed to take a photograph. Morning has indeed broken…

Our first stop of the day was an English café called Eat Crow – we had English pasties, and I bought a bumbleberry pie for that night’s dessert. I had never tasted one before. It was delish!! From there, we took a circuitous route up Grandfather Mountain, stopping at various outlooks on the way to the summit. Glorious!!!

Driving to the summit of Grandfather Mountain

Once we summited and parked, the next big challenge was opening the car door! The wind factor was “only” 18 mph” but it felt like 100… Lesley had to hang onto the door handle while I exited.

Woof! Some wind!

Allie held me down so I didn’t blow away…isn’t she gorgeous?!

But the views! Unbelievable, and so elemental….I just loved it…I think it was my favorite adventure around the Blue Ridge Mountains – but it is hard to choose.

Once we got back home, we drove into Blowing Rock for a concert at the Inn at Ragged Gardens (don’t you love the names)…which Les attended,

and I, needing a bit of a rest, found the SixPence Pub where I had a quiet corner to put my feet up and drink my Boddington’s. Loved it! Wrote my journal and just enjoyed the surroundings.

Saturday

As we drove down and up the mountain from the house to various ports of call, I’m noticing the houses, barns and farms that hang precariously from the mountainside or plunge into the valley. Here is one beautiful image.

A home with a view

On this day, we drove back to the Cone Memorial Park, and wandered around Mildred the Bear’s Environmental Habitat, found secret side paths and dry stone walls, and stopped at overlooks to take in more unparalleled views of the Blue Ridge Mountains.

Secret pathways…

Blowing Rock was just two miles away, so we ambled in that direction and ate lunch at the tiny Blowing Rock Grilled Cheese Café.

We both had the French Grille. It encompassed Brie and Gruyere cheeses with pear and fig dressing on a grilled sourdough pannini! Heaven on a plate!

The town was awash with flowers…which always makes me happy!

Buttercups!

This was my last day, the end of a very special trip: reconnecting with my long-time family friend in the beauty of the mountains…many thanks to Lesley for a splendid respite. Doesn’t seem to get any better than this…the timeless peace, clean fresh air, mountain magic. Time just seems to go so quickly when you are visiting these wonderful places… All my visits to the mountains – the Smokies, New Hampshire’s White Mountains, Shenandoah – are a marvelous build up to the Blue Ridge Mountains. There is just something about the Blue Ridge…but then, I seem to say that about them all!