Tag Archives: New England

America, America

You can never have enough joy, and travel has given me that and more. Small towns and villages and even large cities scattered through North America are as wonderfully magical as those anywhere on earth. Whether with friends or with travel groups, it’s been amazing to have experienced the loveliness firsthand.

1975Balboa, California

One of California’s prettiest little towns is Balboa, where the sunshine never seems to end and every little street is strewn with flower-filled hanging baskets. Small boutiques and restaurants line the cobblestones, which lead to the edge of a scenic harbor.

2016Blowing Rock, North Carolina 

Nestled among the Blue Ridge Mountains is the small (three blocks) mountain town of Blowing Rock. This delightful town of small shops and cobblestone paths, restaurants and pubs – whether seen in the dappled sun, shade or twilight -is a haven of peace and tranquility.

2021 – 2023 Boston, Massachusetts

Everyone knows about Boston – it’s not a small town, but I love it; it has so many delightful streets dotted with churches, museums, restaurants and fascinating architecture. We found La Voile on this enchanting street, and loved sitting outside, drinking in the beauty.

And it’s such fun visiting Cheers!

2002 Camden, Maine

We began our Maine hike in Camden, which is a wonderful place. The quintessential New England town, its narrow streets, delightful shops, galleries, inns and houses are very akin to those on Martha’s Vineyard, another favorite getaway. It’s situated on the Atlantic coast, at the base of the mountains, so you can sit on the dock of the bay and look out to the sailboats gliding gently across the deep blue waters.  The village green, designed by Frederick Law Olsted, Jr., one of America’s most prominent landscape architects, is a simple green swathe of lawn, trees, gardens and shrubs…just a beautiful place to sit and let your mind drift.

2012 and 1975 – Carmel-by-the-Sea, California

Carmel is beautiful when it’s lit by the sun, and mysterious and magical when it’s foggy and quiet. Its beaches are dotted with windswept cedars bowing to the waves, and once we ate at Clint Eastwood’s Hogs Breath Inn, which I think is now gone.

2021Chilmark and Menemsha, Martha’s Vineyard

Chilmark and Menemsha are two tiny fishing villages, with small gray clapboard houses. “Jaws” was filmed at Menemsha, and just across the inlet, the remains of the “Orca” can be seen on the tiny beach.

2018 Couer d’Alene, Idaho

Coeur d’Alene is a lovely name for a beautiful town. We hiked one of its trails, not terrifically difficult but nonetheless uphill and rocky…it circled Lake Coeur d’Alene with misty views of far-off mountains, fir and pine forests, and beautiful blue clear water. The trail itself for the most part was paved in pine needles, so soft underfoot. The sun shone through the pines, and the scented air smelled of pine resin. We had dinner at a floating restaurant bathed in the sunset…the beauty of the view was enchanting.

2016The Dalles, Oregon

I called The Dalles the “back-of-beyond” – which I absolutely loved. Somewhere further from New York or even Houston is hard to imagine. ..so you feel very relaxed and isolated – all in all, not a bad way to feel on vacation. The Baldwin Saloon is an old restaurant with the aura of time-gone-by – delicious food – terrific waiters. Fabulous dinner: Halibut Parmesan, preceded by oysters on the halfshell… It was a two-beer night, so a good time was had by all!

2004 Edgartown, Martha’s Vineyard, Massachusetts

How lovely Edgartown is, like something from a wonderful picture book. We stayed at The Charlotte Inn, a step back in time.

The houses are pristine, painted white-white, and flowers bloom everywhere: the biggest rhododendrons in scarlets, pinks and white, lilies of the valley hedging a white picket fence, hawthorn, lilacs and wisteria, buttercups and daisies. The beaches are not far away, and neither is the On Time Ferry for Chappaquiddick. Seated on the balcony of The Sand Bar restaurant when the air is bell-clear, a fresh breeze blows and the sky a brilliant blue is one of life’s pure delights.

2016Mukilteo, Washington State

The little town of Mukilteo, located a short distance from Seattle, is absolutely charming. The landscape is hilly, the flowers bloom recklessly – roses, daisies, pansies, phlox, hollyhox, snapdragons, hydrangeas – and it overlooks the blue blue blue of Puget Sound. The wooded hills are sewn with redcedar, firs, hemlocks and undergrowth, with salmon streams running through the underbrush.. The architecture throughout is very varied, from small cottages on up to larger stately homes, with green and colorful landscapes.

2005New York, New York

I love New York! I need say no more.

2004 Panguitch, Utah

The little town of Panguitch (meaning “water” -pop. 2000) is host to Bob’s Cowboy Diner, where we were serenaded through lunch by two cowboys singing “Tumbling Tumbleweeds,” “Call the Wind Mariah,” “Cool Water,” and “Ghostriders in the Sky.” Fantastic! I feel as if I’ve wandered way back in time into the Old West – and I don’t want to return to the present!

1975 Sausalito, California

Sausalito – a sunny little town on the edge of the water, filled with boutiques, art galleries, hippies, cafes and the sea endlessly lapping at the town’s edge. A mime was taking a break in a sheltered corner, and he seemed to embody the spirit of this quintessentially California town. I heard “California Dreamin’” on the radio somewhere.

2016 – Stowe, Vermont

Stowe is a completely delightful New England skiing town at the base of Mt. Mansfield (and which also leads to the Von Trapp Family Inn some miles up the road.) In the autumn, Stowe is enchanting. We loved sitting outside amidst the glorious trees, all orange, red and gold…watching the world go by.

2019 – Taos, New Mexico

Taos, a historic small New Mexican town known for its skiing in winter, is close to the magnificent Rio Grande Gorge (where we walked across its bridge in bitter weather.) Tiny shops, restaurants, inns and art galleries are dotted throughout the tiny town, and its views take your breath away.

On the way into Taos, we found this wonderful tiny Black Mesa Winery, tucked beneath the mountains.

1985 Wellesley, Connecticut

Three hundred and fifty years ago, Wellesley was actually called “Contentment” as the area in which it began was so beautiful. Wellesley College, a private liberal arts college for women and a member of the Seven Sisters Colleges, is here. The town is green to its heart, with woodlands, gardens and parks everywhere you look.

2016Victoria, Vancouver Island, Canada

We arrived in Victoria towards the end of the day as dusk began to settle, a perfect time for a first view of this beguiling town. We strolled around the harbor and watched a mime performing in the twilight (I’m entranced by mimes) and the lights coming on at the Governor’s Mansion. A highlight the following day was High Tea at the historically grand old Empress Hotel.

A toast to the wonders of travel…it’s lovely to know the world is still full of enchantment!

Hiking and rambling around Maine

I have hiked or traveled in so many states throughout New England and loved them all, yet in all the years I’ve been traveling, for some reason I had not made it to Maine – big mistake. So, when a group hike along the coast of Maine in the autumn of 2002 popped up, I knew I couldn’t miss it. Beautiful coastal walks, farm country rambles, and a day trip to historic Monhegan Island, with homebases in Boothbay Harbor and Camden – joy! I could hardly wait!

I landed in Portland the night before joining the group, and connected with Susan – a hiking friend I’d met in Scotland some years back (great thing about hiking in groups: the friends you make). Wandering around Portland in the rapidly fading light, we felt the nip in the air, and stopped for dinner at a lobster house. I had what was apparently the last of the day’s lobsters, fresh out of the bay….in Houston, lobsters are cleaned up with not an unappetizing morsel to be seen. In Maine, you get the entire lobster, with something green and black attached to it…urgle! (And now I cannot eat a lobster at all.)

The next morning, ready to go, we joined the rest of our group from Country Walkers and vanned to Boothbay Harbor, where we were to stay at a charming New England inn.

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Rooming with Susan, we settled into one of the small cottages surrounding the main house – captivating.

Boothbay Harbor is an appealing small town (2,000+ population) that developed as a fishing center, and now offers everything from boat tours to whale watching (we saw no whales).

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Hiking and walking through the surrounding countryside and town, the weather continued to be just about perfect, and the scenery the same.

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We meandered around an imposing mansion whose gardens were a swirling picture awash in color and scent: roses, lupines, marsh marigolds, black eyed susans, geraniums, asters and more I couldn’t recognize. Really beautiful, and certainly a gardener’s delight!

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And the food was delish too…particularly when we ate at scenic outlooks, where picnic tables were set up. Love that!

Part of our hiking trip included the hour-long (more or less) ferry from Boothbay Harbor which deposited us on Monhegan Island on a day that was intermittently sunny, but turned misty and damp.

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We began our ramble around a fairly benign landscape, through lanes in woods laced with delicate greenery, over granite and boulders, and around some of the ubiquitous shingled homes and inns that dotted the landscape.

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The island, an artist colony with about 12 miles of hiking trails, is situated 10 miles from the mainland. You can only get there by boat, and no cars are allowed. Nice! This was not a particularly grueling hike, but there is something to be said for a hike that allows you to inhale the fresh air, look at the beauty surrounding you, take photographs and just enjoy the sea breezes and intermittent sun.

Too soon, it was time to board the ferry for the return journey, and once we were on it, the fog descended in earnest. Good thing these people knew what they were doing, was my main thought as we moved through the dense mist.

Suddenly, from nowhere, an earsplitting blast … then the fog parted and we saw the side of an immense ship moving slowly not yards from our boat. Told to stay extremely still, we sat without stirring and as the ship moved through the fog and away from us, sigh of relief was palpable…yet, once safety reigned again, we were all slightly exhilarated by the adventure!

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After which it was back on the road again…to Camden.

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Camden was an absolute joy to visit. The quintessential New England town, its narrow streets, delightful shops, galleries, inns and houses were very akin to those on Martha’s Vineyard, another favorite getaway of mine. Planting our luggage at the Camden Harbor Inn, we took off on a ramble around the town.

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It’s situated right on the coast, at the base of the mountains, so you can sit on the dock of the bay and look to the sailboats gliding gently across the deep blue water. The village green, designed by Frederick Law Olsted, Jr., one of America’s most prominent landscape architects, is a simple green swathe of lawn, trees, gardens and shrubs…just a beautiful place to sit and let your mind drift.

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A walk outside Camden took us through farm country, where Belted Galloway cattle grazed in green fields, black cattle with a wide white stripe circling their middle…cows I had never seen before (called by kids in Maine “Oreo Cookie Cows”).

 

The farmland was picturesque, like a picture come to life, with the fall trees in full color, and with the quiet of the countryside blanketing the landscape, and an occasional “moo” puncturing the stillness. But some of our hikes were more challenging.

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On a fairly overcast day, several of us opted to hike up Mt. Battie, a 1.5 mile moderate trail that was peaceful and serene.

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The hike itself was quite laid back, as the trail ambled at a leisurely ascent around the mountain.

13-img104-6Atop the mountain we came to a large white cross, which can be seen from the valley below. The vista from the peak was fabulous: a panoramic view of Camden Harbor and Penobscot Bay, laid out like a fairy tale below our feet. Loved this little hike!

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On the final chilly night in Camden, we all partook of a traditional lobster boil, sitting outside in the darkness on benches set on either side of trestle tables overlooking the bay. Bundled up in our parkas and boots, we set to: dinner was not just the lobsters (poor things!) but huge vats of boiling corn on the cob, tubs of melted butter, and chewy bread. Nothing like it in Houston, that’s for sure!

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Maine, with its iconic coastline and small towns, is a total delight…I loved every minute of this wonderful, albeit short, trip…. I like the feeling of “going back in time” when I visit New England … and being rather retro, I like that a lot! Maine is a bit like something out of a movie. It’s beautiful, peaceful (at least where we were), and very very appealing…it’s a state I would definitely love to revisit one day.