Tag Archives: Minster Lovell

The Beauty of the World

From childhood through the 2000s, I’ve been on the move. And luckily, where I started from was a delightful small village called The Mumbles, on the coast of Wales in the U.K., storybook in every way. As I’ve traveled through the years, it’s been my good fortune to experience the beauty of unforgettable places often in the back of beyond – and have a camera close to hand! (Mount St. Michaels in Cornwall is pictured above.)

The Mumbles, Wales

The Mumbles was everything a child could dream of…a village of small cottages and shops, including a tiny grocery halfway up an almost vertical hill called Higher Lane.  Everywhere were country lanes and meadowlands starred with wildflowers and heather. The Mumbles is surrounded by cliffs, shores, pebbled beaches, and caves which beg for exploration.

Grazemala, Andalusia, Spain

Enchanting Grazemala in Andalusia – the town is absolutely charming: all hilly cobbled streets and a tiny town square overlooked by the Catholic church, lots of adorable shops … beautiful.

Granada, Andalusia, Spain

Granada is one of Andalusia’s storied cities; here you will find the magical Alhambra.

Ronda, Andalusia, Spain

One of my favorite places on earth, Ronda is a town divided by a deep gorge, looking out over the plains to a faraway horizon… Hiking here was an incredible adventure.

Portofino, Italy

Our first view of Portofino, as we hiked down from high atop a hill: narrow walled paths, starred with daisies. The tiny town of Portofino floats within this panorama, the bay dotted with white boats and yachts. Like a small blue sapphire within an emerald green cup, Portofino is a quintessential cosmopolitan seaside Riviera town.

Snowshill, The Cotswolds, England

Snowshill is a town of sunwashed Cotswolds stone, lanes and lavender fields, and home to Snowshill Manor, once owned by an eccentric individual who gathered oddities from all over the world for the manor house. The manor garden is enchanting. Snowshill’s small pub on the village green is quintessentially English.

Minster Lovell, The Cotswolds, England

Minster Lovell is a village I had never heard of, and was a delightful, absolutely charming surprise. The old church, St. Kenelm’s, is a grade A-listed church dating from the 14th-15th century. Behind the church are tall lacy ruins of what used to be a great manor house set against a wide green lawn alongside the river, where children play on the grass.

Stanton, The Cotswolds, England

The little village of Stanton seems to personify everything I love about the Cotswolds. It is perfect in every way. The houses are built of the butter-yellow Cotswolds stone, and the small street winds downhill and is filled with beautiful sights. Ivy covered walls…a pansy growing from a stone…climbing roses in bloom…views of the rolling Cotswolds hills seen through a framework of old, old trees and houses… and a picturesque little pub in which to have lunch.

Chipping Campden, The Cotswolds, England

One of the beautiful historic gems dotting the Cotswolds, Chipping Campden is full of storybook buildings, cobblestone streets and drystone walls, fields and trails.

Lacock, Wiltshire, England

A storied small village with a lovely little inn, The Sign of the Angel, which houses a resident ghost. If you walk the cobbled streets at dusk, the mystery and magic of Lacock’s history surround you.

Polperro, Cornwall, England

A tiny fishing village on the coast of Cornwall, Polperro has an aura that is really magical. The narrow winding streets, the tiny houses interspersed with shops, restaurants, pubs and galleries…everywhere you look is a picture. Houses are built into or hacked out of bedrock, stacked up on the cliffsides, looking out over steel gray seas. 

Fowey, Cornwall

Some of the most enchanting views on the Cornish coast are seen from Fowey, a small port town, and the village itself is made up of white houses on a cliff overlooking the natural harbor of great beauty.

Perranuthnoe, Cornwall, England

No bigger than a teacup, Perranuthnoe casts a magic spell. We couldn’t find directions when driving in Cornwall one autumn, until someone told us to turn right at Bertie Wooster’s Inn.

Ryde, The Isle of Wight, Great Britain

One of the most magical views looks out from my 4th story hotel room over the rooftops of Ryde to the English Channel. Surrounded by beautiful beaches and hiking trails, Ryde is hilly, with cobbled streets and wonderful little shops, pubs and houses.

Cong, Ireland

A tiny historic town in County Mayo, Cong is where the film “The Quiet Man” with John Wayne and Maureen O’Sullivan was filmed…and every pub and restaurant and hotel is named after one of the characters in the movie, and every window is filled with photographs from the movie. Just delightful. Just outside the town is Ashford Castle (with more photos of the cast on its walls)…here you can experience falconry, boat rides, sing along with a troubadour onstage, and revel in the beauty of the Irish countryside.

Glendalough, Ireland

Glendalough is a glacial valley located in County Wicklow known for its incredible natural beauty. Hikes in this historic and magical place are something never to be forgotten.

Inverness, Scotland

Located on the River Ness and steeped in history, Inverness is one of Scotland’s loveliest towns, with architecture that makes you think you’re in another time and place.

Bergen, Norway

Majestic and thrilling, Bergen is surrounded by green mountains – we loved riding the funicular to the top of the mountain and walking back down through deep ferny woods and huge oak and birch trees – beautiful!

Loutro, Crete

Our first glimpse of Loutro is of a heavenly small port on the Libyan sea coast, its buildings whitewashed and edged with the vivid blue shutters of Greece – all facing the water. Our hotel, the Sitis, is at the far edge of the tiny waterfront. It is hard to describe my feelings on first seeing Loutro: it is all I had hoped Greece and Crete would be.

Thoughts on the small villages and countryside of the Cotswolds

The Swan, Bibury

A short n’ sweet post, as this day was part of a 2-week sojourn in England, noted elsewhere! I spent a day in the Cotswolds, rambling around the small villages that I love, and wished never to leave…

Loving Bibury

Steve picked me up in Chipping Campden early on Wednesday morning, and we began our perfect day of exploration, from Minster Lovell to Stanton and Bibury, to Fillkins and Stanway, to Burford and points in between. Each village had something special to offer, and if you’re looking for the backroads of England, in countryside that doesn’t seem to have changed in more than 100 years, these villages are for you.

Iconic telephone booth and post box

Minster Lovell, to which I was introduced in 2017, continues to be an enchanting small town of crumbling ruins, delightful pathways, the old churchyard,

Crumbling church ruin, Minster Lovell

leafy lanes and chickens in the front gardens.

Minster Lovell chickens

Stanton is one of those villages I would willingly embed myself in – from the moment I discovered it a few years ago, I have loved it.

Drystone wall, Stanton

Deep bowered lanes overhung with heavy, leaf-strewn branches,

the footpaths carpeted with red and rust lichen, houses built up the gently rising hillside, their walls glowing golden in the late afternoon sunshine,

and the flowers that inhabit the gardens and scatter their scented breath over the air.

Everywhere I go, the greenness of England is always present…what would England be without it? I love the hedgerows,

the fields stretching out to low-lying hills…

white sheep dotting the landscapes in the fields…

then there are the drystone walls,

the iconic red of pillar boxes, old telephone booths now converted to defribrillators,

the old churchyards with headstones leaning towards the ground

gray old Norman churches against a pale blue-white sky…

Beautiful, beautiful England…loving it always…

Exploring small Cotswolds villages – Chapter 4

Small Cotswolds villages – with our tour guide Steve – Chapter 4

Tuesday August 29…This is the day Steve, our tour guide, took us on a Cotswolds villages tour. It was a memorable day, among many…Steve is a terrific guide, and he had devised a splendid itinerary.

I had been hoping to see at least one park or garden designed by the wonderful landscape artist Lancelot “Capability” Brown.

Steve surprised us with a visit to his (Brown’s) first manor house and landscape, Croome Court.

Covering over 1,170 acres of manmade parkland situated between the Rivers Avon and Severn and close to Pershore, it was primarily marshland when Capability Brown was chosen by the 6th Earl of Coventry in 1751 to design both the park and the manor house.

Today, while apparently still unfinished, the grounds contain a church, lakes and islands, bridges, grottos, meandering pathways, beautiful trees and lush bushes.  The stonework is wonderful. Adding to the melancholy beauty of the estate, the sky was overcast, and it was damp and a little chilly.

As early sunlight burned through intermittent cloud cover, we drove through the gently sloping hills of the Cotswolds countryside, green and golden.

Passing through many small villages, we pulled over for a few minutes off the beaten path at Elmley Castle for photographs of the Tudor-style cottages and ivy clad shops and restaurants.

We then wended our way to the two Slaughters, which straddle the banks of the River Eye.

 

The Slaughters name is not as bloody as it sounds; in old English, it apparently means “muddy place”…possibly! Under the now lowering English sky, we saw the meandering river crossed by stone bridges, and the charming cottages surrounding it.

Here we ate lunch at the Old Mill, a tiny riverside café run by a friend of Steve’s.

The small outdoor bathrooms (well, outdoor in the sense of not being in the cafe) had low-lying doorframes, and apparently ignoring the sign saying “Watch your head,” I immediately bashed mine against the lintel – looking and feeling rather idiotic since there was quite an audience to my momentary lapse and crossed eyes.

I didn’t feel quite so bad when, on a return visit to said bathroom, a woman coming out immediately cracked her head against the overhead beam. We both stared at one another, while I muttered consoling words to the effect of “I was an idiot myself” – no, not really but whatever! (I think they need a bigger sign!)

After lunch, we ambled along the river, as the sky continued to darken, with scudding gray clouds a backdrop to the timeless English landscape.

We wandered down the river bank, crossed over small bridges, and basically enjoyed the foliage beginning to turn an autumn-y rust and red.

And then our next stop was Burford. David had remembered a special visit there in 1979, so that was next – it’s a charming town with a lovely long ascending high street, bustling with shoppers and tourists. (I was there in September 2007, not long after the great flood.) We found the church and graveyard.

There was a lot of reconstruction going on, but I managed to take pictures of him among the sarcophagi. Talk about a walk among the tombstones!

It was time to get back in the car, and Steve drove us through Bourton-on-the-Water (“very touristy” so we didn’t stop, and I had been there in 2006) to Minster Lovell. This is a village I have never heard of, and was a delightful, absolutely charming surprise.

The old grade A-listed church, St. Kenelm’s, dates back to 14th-15th century.

Behind the church were tall lacy ruins of what used to be a great manor house set in a wide green lawn alongside the river.

Children played on the grass. I loved it…it was beautifully peaceful, really a respite from the “other world” we normally inhabit.

The village was equally wonderful.

After which, Steve wanted to take us to the Cotswolds Woolen Weavers, a terrific woolen mill in the village of Filkins housed in an 18th century barn.

It is the last company in the area to implement the traditions of woolen cloth design and manufacture, according to the site on Google.

ENGLAND 2017 415

The wool was exquisite, with a soft satiny sheen.

I plunged my hand into a basket of raw sheep’s wool, and when I withdrew it, my hand was coated in lanolin…so soft!

(I was also taken by a soap called Old Goat – nothing to do with anyone I know – just an eccentric name with a wonderful scent!)

I wanted to buy everything I saw! Steve and David helped me to choose a coat out of many (hard!) and David bought a classy wool sweater. I had to be dragged out of there kicking and screaming (internally!) I could’ve furnished my house in Houston with the sofas, chairs, blankets, throws and accessories that were displayed against the old stone walls.

After Steve pushed me into the car, he drove us back to Broadway, dropping us off at the Broadway Hotel bar for dinner. David had two martinis; I had a Guinness, with an absolutely fabulous hamburger. Seriously, it was absolutely top notch. Then, replete (very) and relaxed (even more so), we walked back along the road to Old Orchard, happy campers we. And so ended the day of our lovely satisfying tour…thank you Steve…it was the best