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Fir-lined trails, farmland, rivers and lakes…From Spokane to Coeur d’Alene

Fir-lined trails, farmland, rivers and lakes…From Spokane to Coeur d’Alene –the beauty of the hike

Tuesday, May 15

I was so ready to get out of town…the heat was starting to get really intense. I left home before noon and made it through to the Phoenix airport, changed planes and went on to Spokane, arriving with no blasted-out windows or oxygen masks dropping down!

At 5:30, Lee was patiently waiting in the baggage area and we were out of there in a snap. The afternoon was beautiful …we scooted home to have a drink out on the deck of her house overlooking the gorgeous firs and pines lining the gully of her back yard. After which, we had dinner, a long talk, and so to bed.

Wednesday, May 16

Lee had researched some new trails in readiness for our visit, and on Wednesday morning, we were up with the larks as it were. The weather was beautiful, and we were in the car by 9am, on the road to Kamiak Butte, where we intended to hike to the crest.

This was a challenging hike for me – not so much for Lee, as she hikes around Spokane all year long! The hike itself is purported to be 3.5 miles – 1,000+ feet.

Unfortunately, I could not for the life of me get one of my hiking poles to screw to the proper height and hold. So I left that one behind, depending on the other pole to see me through when necessary. I really prefer two poles for balance – and once upon a time in the far distant past – I didn’t even use poles!

The trail was, of course, mostly uphill although there were some flat footpaths as we wended our way round the butte. Boy, could I tell that I hadn’t hiked in 2-3 years! Not only that, I could feel myself listing to the right, with the one pole holding me up!

Initially, the trails were ferny and lichen-lined, but as we ascended, they became rocky and bouldery-y – and steep.

In the distance, we heard intermittent thunder, and a few raindrops hit our faces, but it still remained fairly light and bright, so we soldiered on. Just like in the movies, we kept thinking – where’s the top of this place! Halfway up, we stopped for “a little smack of something” to keep us going, and then it was back on the trail.

By this time, the thunder was closer, and the gentle rain from heaven was definitely splattering on the place beneath. (Well, not heavily – just splats!) But we got to the top where we’d planned to finish our picnic sandwiches and have a brief rest.

It was not to be. The sky had turned heavy, and we thought we’d better get downhill and back to the car before the rain really increased in volume.

So back on the trail – getting about 3/4 of the way down and paying attention – so we thought – to signs and arrows showing which way was what. We came to a sign which said “Private Property” and more or less, “Enter at your peril” (ha!) but we ignored the sign, as we have always intelligently done in the past.

Down and down we went until what had started as a fairly gentle trail gave way to high grasses and NO trail. We kept hoping we’d find a footpath…breadcrumbs…something…but after half an hour – during which I had to stop, take off my hiking shoes and replace with my walking shoes, which I’d brilliantly stuck in my backpack – we knew we were going the wrong way…and we were tired. Lee took the moment to have a brief rest….

Nonetheless, we turned back UP the hill, and Lee providentially noticed a trail (which we had apparently overlooked before) which proved to be “the right track.” All in all we hiked for about 5 hours – about 5 miles total. The weather by this time had given up the ghost on the sunlight and was dim and wet.

My hair looked, as it does in these instances, like a brillo pad – but luckily for me, I can erase those images from the cell phone camera. Ha!

We got in the car and drove to a small café called South Hill Bistro that was absolutely delightful…ending up in a cozy booth with an IPA beer for me and a martini, then wine, for Lee! I had fish and chips, and Lee a beef salad. All was yummy.

Then it was back home at twilight, to sit on the deck and pontificate for an hour…and then as we were both exhausted…we called it a night.

Thursday, May 17

Slept late today (well, 7:30) and woofed around reading emails and the news, while Lee ran to the grocery store for some essentials of life, including of course Guinness… The rain had started in earnest by the time we were on the road; nonetheless, we decided to go to Riverside State Park, at the Bowl and Pitcher (a starting point for the river hike).

We got there while all was still relatively dry, and then took a few minutes trying to get my “other” pole to work – which – ta da! – I finally did. Off we went through the puddles, like ducks.

The river was in spate, and very high, lots of white water – rushing beneath the bridge we crossed and giving me a moment of vertigo when I looked at it through the bridge slats.

The trail itself was fairly benign, flat and few rocks or boulders. As we walked on, it began to rain more heavily, so it was on with the raincoats, and pulling our hoods over our heads. At which point, I looked like Bilbo.

The trail began to gather more puddles…and the mosquitoes were everywhere. Eventually, two hours later, we gave up the ghost and wended our way back to the car. We did manage a few photographs, but between having problems with my new phone camera and the wet weather, we decided enough was enough!

So it was home to strip off our wet clothes, dry off, eat our picnic sandwiches in the living room, and then take a short ramble around the neighborhood, whose streets were lined with the most interesting, eclectic homes…and beautiful landscaping. And wild turkeys!

Back home, Lee went into baking mode, and made some wonderful shortbread! (Tomorrow, rhubarb crisp!)

Friday, May 18

Managed to peel myself out of bed around 7am… puttered around for a little, reading emails and checking news stories, then upstairs for breakfast and coffee… After a quick shower, I packed my backpack – Lee is always aghast at the weight of it – and by 10am, we were off to the Old Trail Road trailhead, known as Trail 25.

It was chilly and damp, having just finished raining. But the sky looked to be clearing, so off we took. The trail was a nice easy walk for the most part…wide, bordered by firs and pines, and pretty flat.

As we entered a more forest-y area, it started spitting raindrops, and the trail narrowed and began to roll up and downhill, with some rocky terrain. I was glad of my two poles!!

The trees grew closer together, some overhanging the trail. Hills covered with trees, foliage and flowers soared on one side, while the other dropped off gently to lots of scrub and foliage.

Beautiful sage-green moss grew on the boulders, but many of the flowers had already seen their springtime and were not in abundance.

We hiked for about an hour, then the mosquitoes got to be too much, so we turned to come back. The day had started off fairly cool, and now was somewhat warmer, but not by much. But it was muggy as all get out!

Nonetheless, I didn’t need a hoodie – too hot! Lee and I matched hiking strides, and we had all in all a good 2 hour hike through some very lovely countryside.

Unfortunately, Lee had forgotten her backpack with food therein! So we wended our way home, found the backpack with the sandwiches, and had a nice 30 minutes of eating and yakking it up.

Now I’m going to wash my hair, and Lee to take a nap, and then off to Doug and Andrea’s (son, daughter in law) for drinks and dinner. Lovely! (And I can’t believe it’s Friday!)

Saturday, May 19

And here comes the sun! It was a complete volte face weather-wise today – the sun came out and stayed out, and the day was absolutely beautiful…and warm.

We managed to get out of the house around 9:30 after a yummy Lee-cooked breakfast, and made our way to Coeur d’Alene, through rolling farmlands, where we were planning to hike Tubbs Hill around the Lake (really, couldn’t they come up with a more descriptive name for such a beautiful place?)

The trail, while not terrifically difficult, was nonetheless uphill and rocky…it circled Lake Coeur d’Alene, giving us misty views of far-off mountains, fir and pine forests, and beautiful blue clear water. The trail itself for the most part was paved in pine needles, so soft underfoot. My hiking boots were holding up really well…and I also had my twin poles for balance, so I was good to go. Lee kept to a single pole, and beavered up the mountain toot sweet!

The sun shone through the pines, and the scented air smelled of pine resin. Of course, halfway around the lake, we managed to get “sort of lost”…no matter which trail we took it ended in deadlock. So finally, after an hour, we turned back hence the way we came. What the hey…it was still beautiful!! Basically, we walked an hour and a half…about 3 miles all in all, over rocky boulders, fallen trees and tree roots, all the while keeping the lake in view.

We were hungry, so we made our way to the Dockside Restaurant in Coeur d’Alene, where we split a delicious roast chicken sandwich with avocado, while Lee ate healthy with soup, and I scarfed down really yummy french fries. And an iced latte. (Well, I’m on vacation, so I don’t care!)

Back in the car, after some discussion as to whether or not to hike the Mineral Ridge – somehow the fact that “ridge” was part of the name gave us pause…we ended up driving back to Spokane, and walking around downtown for an hour and a half.

Spokane is just a beautiful town….the architecture is crisp and clean, everything looks as if it’s been scrubbed once a day. We walked the Spokane River pathway … the river was in full spate, and made a terrific noise under bridges, with whitewater horses jostling and sending up white sprays of foam.

The landscape was green green green – dotted with white and purple lilacs, purple iris, white spirea, rhododendrons, and other gorgeous flowers in full blossom. The sky was very blue, the clouds very white.

Townhouses built along the river were painted sage green, blending in beautifully with the landscape, and the architecture was pristine.

The river is home to all sorts and conditions of wildlife, and halfway around the river, goslings and their mother crossed our path…or, their path. Nice to be able to live there! I loved it.

A beautiful walk. A beautiful day.

After which (6 miles altogether all day), we decided to weave our way home, have a minute’s rest, and then drive back downtown for dinner at Twigs, a charming restaurant close to the river.

We sat on the patio in the late afternoon sunshine, sipping and just kicking back…this time a little group of ducklings and their mom joined the merry throng on the patio…they pattered around, duck-nibbling this and that, and finally found their way to grass and river. Perfect!

Sunday, May 20

I left Spokane, after a perfectly splendid visit…for Houston, where the surroundings are not quite so bucolic. We took a couple of photos standing on Lee’s wonderful deck and then it was time to go…

I’ll miss being able to step outside and almost immediately be part of the green of nature… Of course, this is the joy of travel…you get to be where you want to be, while keeping in touch with friends who feel the same as you do…So here’s to another delightful trip and visit with Lee, and the pleasure of seeing and hiking yet more of the beautiful Spokane countryside!

The charm of Victoria, Vancouver Island, Canada

Across the harbor, Victoria

Across the Inner Harbor, Victoria, with The Empress in the background

Amazing flowers

As the heat continues to build in Houston, it was wonderful to be able to get away to a cooler part of the U.S., specifically the Pacific Northwest, and then on to Victoria, Vancouver Island, Canada. July is always a terrific time to visit that part of the country, because you can pretty much depend on beautiful weather, warm days and nights with a chill in the air.

A walk along Puget Sound

A walk along Puget Sound

I flew into Seattle and stayed for a couple of days in the little town of Mukilteo, which is absolutely charming. The landscape is hilly, the flowers bloom recklessly, and Puget Sound is blue blue blue. On the first full day of the trip, we all drove into Seattle to experience both a foodie tour, and Seattle’s Public Market. The foodie tour, which was guided by Liz McCune of EatSeattleTours.com, was terrific. We started early, going from booths to stalls to shops, taste-testing everything from coffee to cheese, to mac and cheese, to pastries and chocolate. Yum-o!

Seattle food tasting tour

Seattle food tasting tour – the Public Market

After which we stopped for lunch! Despite having dipped tongue into so many foods, we were all still hungry, and it was terrific sitting in the pub overlooking the bay, having brunch. The weather was really beautiful…basically, you could say it was Goldilocks’ weather: not too hot, not too cold, but just right. Lucky us!

Rambling round Mukilteo

Rambling round Mukilteo

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The rest of the day I spent rambling around Mukilteo and getting ready for the brief but exciting trip to Victoria and Vancouver Island.

Driving through potato fields on the way to the ferry

Driving through potato fields on the way to the ferry

Monday morning, we drove the two-hour stretch from Mukilteo to the ferry. I loved the entire drive – through open farm country, with potato fields covered in their purple flower,

One of the picturesque barns

One of the wonderful picturesque barns

past picturesque old barns, and through tiny towns…stopping for a bite to eat in LaConner, one of my favorite towns in this area. It really is a “tiny town” … you can walk the main street in a minute. It’s filled with small boutiques, great little restaurants, and galleries. Just fun to wander around in the sunshine (and wish you lived here.)

Eating our way to Canada! A delicious cinnamon roll for breakfast in LaConner!

Eating our way to Canada! A delicious cinnamon roll for breakfast in LaConner!

Then on to the ferry, and my first glimpse of Canada. We didn’t wait long, and the ferry ride itself, although about another two-hour trip, was immensely comfortable, with booths set alongside the windows so you’re able to look out onto the islands and get the first glimpse of the Canadian shore. I really was excited…never having been to Canada before.

The ferry to Sidney by the Sea, Canada

The ferry to Sidney by the Sea, Canada

Coming to Canada

Coming to Canada

We arrived at Sidney by the Sea on Vancouver Island, and as we drove through, my first thought was: I’ve never seen such a spotless town. Not a scrap of paper, a tin can, or a piece of garbage was anywhere in sight. I didn’t know whether to wonder if the Stepford Wives lived here, or if everyone was extremely careful of the environment. Very impressive!

Victoria - Parliament

Victoria – Parliament

A tiny water taxi

A tiny water taxi

We arrived in Victoria towards the end of the day, and got ourselves settled in the Victoria Chateau, a sweet little hotel with a great restaurant perched atop with 360o views of the city.

After cleaning up, it was a short walk to dinner, and then we strolled around the harbor, watching a mime performing in the twilight,

A mime performs - the harbor in Victoria

A mime performs at the Inner Harbor, Victoria

and the lights coming on at the Governor’s Mansion. Magical. We took another stroll through the Empress Hotel, where we planned to have High Tea the following day.

The Empress Hotel

The Empress Hotel

The Empress is the grand old lady of hotels. Overlooking Inner Harbor, and close to Government Street and the Parliament buildings, its ivy-covered brick façade is absolutely enchanting. Inside are shops and boutiques, the tea room where we’ll have High Tea at 4PM, and history out the wazoo…. After which, we turned in early to get ready for the Butchart Gardens the next day.

A view at Butchart Gardens

A view at Butchart Gardens

Up at around 7:30, I ordered Room Service breakfast, which is such a great way to start the morning (for me, anyway!). Then we were off to the Gardens, and it really was a sight to behold. The flowers were out in full force, colors blending in garden vistas as far as the eye could see. But the green was what held my attention: from the cedars and yews to the beautifully mown grass, the boxwood edgings and the fences and walls covered in ivies, it was a most impressive and glorious place.

The green is amazing!

The green is amazing!

Incredible flowers - but the hydrangeas were awesome

Incredible flowers – the hydrangeas were awesome

More views of these incredible gardens

More views of these incredible gardens

We stopped mid-tour for a drink in the tea room. As we couldn’t order just a drink, we ordered high tea (despite the fact we were having High Tea at The Empress later that day!) Tea consisted of – well, tea….as well as sandwiches, small quiches, scones and dessert. Yikes! Not to say we didn’t eat it all – we did, and it was great. (But we had to move High Tea at The Empress back an hour or two in order to feel at least some hunger pangs by the time we got there.)

A view of the tearoom

A view of the tearoom

The weather was perfect. And getting to the Gardens at an early hour was smart, because by the time noon rolled around, it was packed with tourists. By arriving early, we could take our time wandering the pathways. The most spectacular part was the quarry gardens…photographs don’t do it justice. But needless to say, you were just encompassed by the beauty.

The Quarry Gardens

The Quarry Gardens

Ride a cockhorse to Banbury Cross....

Ride a cockhorse to Banbury Cross….

Finally, we drove back to our hotel and after a rest and freshen up, it was on to The Empress for High Tea. People took tea in all manner of dress…certainly wasn’t important to dress up for the event. After the requisite glass of sherry, we ordered….a 3-tiered cake stand offered a wonderful variety of finger sandwiches, quiches, desserts of all types…in other words: High Tea!

High Tea at The Empress

High Tea at The Empress

After the tea, we drove around Victoria, and then Vancouver Island. The day, which had been warm, eventually cooled down into the 60s, chilly but not unduly so. We viewed the Parliament buildings across the water, chatted with some locals who lived in the area, and just wandered around looking at everything and anything…it was great.

Doing my Howard Roarke imitation

Doing my Howard Roark impression, in the cool of the evening

The final day on Vancouver Island was spent touring Craigdarroch Castle, a Victorian era Scottish baronial mansion, with amazing woodwork and stained glass.

Craigderrock Castle

Craigdarroch Castle

We walked down the road from the Castle, to the Lieutenant Governor’s Mansion and grounds, which were beautifully landscaped…hydrangeas out in full force, and magnificent. And it had a teashop – the cry goes out! Another high tea was then addressed….and it was equally delicious!

Teashop - the cry goes out!

Teashop on the Lt. Governor’s grounds – the cry goes out!

The remains of the day were spent driving around the island and visiting a used bookshop, until it was time to catch the ferry back to the U.S.

Stopping to smell the ... sweet peas

Stopping to smell the … sweet peas

Although we had no time for hiking on this trip, it was a wonderful, eventful, a magical time. Next year, Banff!!

Carmel, Monterey and the glorious California coast

I love California. It’s such an incredibly beautiful landscape, offering desert, ocean, forests, waterfalls, idyllic towns, wonderful weather…you name it, California has it. Great hiking! So at the invitation of two friends we’d made while in Crete, Elisa and I went on a long weekend visit that was really magical few days in and around Pebble Beach, Carmel, Monterey, with hikes and rambles through redwoods, and up hills and through fields of wildflowers….

After hopping and bopping from one airport to another (with a stop in Albuquerque, a nice break for an hour), we land at the San Jose airport Thursday afternoon. Eileen picks us up and drives us to Joanne’s entrancing Pebble Beach home. We settle in, then walk down driftwood paths to the sea and along the coast for about an hour, ending up at the Spanish Links golf club for drinks on the patio. The air is chill but sweet. We sit around an open fireplace, watching the ocean …soothed by its sussuration …as the sun goes down. In the distance, a bagpiper wanders the links, the melody poignant, the half-light bringing memories.

After which, we walk to the Fishwife’s Grille for a light dinner of grilled halibut and salads.

Point Lobos State Park

The 3 Musketeers (minus Eileen who’s taking the picture)

We have a splendid night’s sleep at Joanne’s. The down comforters, the silky smoothness of the sheets, and the crisp night air all combine to make sleeping an easeful thing. Up and ready to go, after a breakfast of cereal, bagels and honey and watching the deer and one beautifully-antlered buck saunter across surrounding lawns.

We drive to Point Lobos State Park, and hike steadily for 6-7 hours, only breaking for bagels in the van.

Free as a bird!

The park has trails, beaches and rocks along the southern side of the point. The scenery is unbelievable. We climb down into small coves and beaches, and watch the birds nesting on rocks out to sea.

Birds nesting on the cliffs

The morning is misty and very cool, but by midday, the sun burns off the mist, and brilliant sunshine reigns.

We spend some time in Monterey…

And continue on through more beautiful rambles…

 

 

Soberanes Creek in Garrapata State Park

After this splendid trail walk, we drive to Soberanes Creek in Garrapata State Park, hiking up the mountain into the redwood forest.

The flowers! along the trail…banks of purple wisteria-like blooms, California poppies, hollyhocks, yellow gorse, and others I can’t even remember. The color is unbelievable.

When we reach the redwoods, the experience is quite intense. The height and girth of those magnificent, wonderful trees… I keep patting them as I walk by, feeling a strong kinship with the living forest.

Yes, I am a tree-hugger!

Eileen and I climb and climb, until the creek is far below us (the water crystal clear); we then turn and climb down to the creek bed and wander a bit more. Eileen takes a break as I continue following the trail of the water – silence all around. What a great feeling being immersed in these splendid woods.

Talk about a photographer’s heaven… wherever you look is a picture…the Frank Lloyd Wright house on the Big Sur coast, the Lone Cypress, redwoods, the ocean, so much beauty, so little film (this is before I finally purchase a digital camera.)

Tonight we eat at Nepenthe’s, sitting on the patio overlooking the ocean. Heaven on a plate!

A rest after dinner

 

Jack’s Peak and Carmel

At the start of a hike

Come Saturday, we hike Jack’s Peak for about three hours (the pines smell like heaven), afterwards eating lunch at FiFi’s, an adorable tiny restaurant recommended by my dentist. Next we pop back into Carmel for shopping and gallery hopping, spending some time in the incredible gardens of a beautiful hotel.

Another great dinner in Big Sur, then back to Joanne’s for coffee and sleep.

Up at 4:45AM on Sunday – talk about a rude awakening! The plane leaves at 8:30AM, and we don’t arrive in Houston until around 5PM – those little cramped seats on SW A/L do not make for comfy travel!

Joanne and Eileen are perfect hosts…nothing is too much to ask, whether we are begging Joanne to stop the car every two minutes to take a photograph, or needing Eileen to drive us to the airport.

Hard not to be happy here

Who wouldn’t want to be in California?